Le Vendange Provençal or The Wine Harvest in Provence

Looking across the vineyards busy with harvesters, our hostess pointed and said, “le vendange.”
That was on a beautiful autumn day in Provence during the vendange of 2001,
well before we purchased our home in Sablet – Maison des Pelerins.
We were staying at a Chambres d’hotes in Pernes-les-Fontaines. 
Our hostess suggested that we would have some of the freshly picked grapes
at dinner that night. 
That sounded great – but I wasn’t expecting anything like the grapes we ate. 
They were the sweetest, juiciest grapes that I had ever eaten –
 to quote Diane Lane in the movie, Under the Tuscan Sun,  “they even tasted purple”!


Sablet - Provence - Vineyards surround the small village of Sablet

Fast forward:  All through the summer we watch the bunches of grapes hanging on the vines.
Progressing from  small, tight, green clumps to deep purple, plump grapes that seem to overload their stems. 
In French, “une grape” is a bunch of grapes, the individual grapes are “les raisins”. 
As the season progresses, the vintners check the fruit,
trim the vines to make sure that the fruit are getting all the nutrients they need
for a bountiful harvest, and hope it doesn’t rain at the wrong time! 
The anticipation builds and builds until the announcement of the date on which
 “le vendange commence” (the wine harvest begins)!


Provence - Two streams of grapes so dark purple that they are hard to distinguish from the dark metal of the large mechanical picker as they pour into the truck that will take them back to be crushed and turned into delicious Cote du Rhone wine. 

That date sets in motion the arrival of the vineyard workers, usually towards the end of August. 
They come from many different places – whole families
who have worked in the area in years past.
During our first late August in Sablet, we noticed the vacant vllage houses 
suddenly being occupied, by families moving in, complete with everything they needed
 to live for the duration of the vendange.


Sablet - Provence - La Gravillas Cave Cooperative - One of the long line of tractors - just unloaded a trailer full of grapes to be crushed, sugar measured and seperated from stems and seeds.  Then off to get the fermentation started in large vats.

Then the signs on the side of the road saying, “Attention!  Vendange en cours”
What are they talking about?           It’s a warning......
that the roads of Provence will be crowded with slow tractors and smaller grape transporters
on their way to and from the vineyards and the Domaine or Cave Cooperative
to unload and then go back for the next load of sun warmed, sweet, sticky grapes.
The pace of traffic on all the roads in the area slows down to accommodate these vehicles.




Provence - near Orange Sud - Even on a very warm Autumn day, grape pickers working in one of the Cote du Rhone fields are ready to have fun when a camera is near.

In the fields, the grape pickers – their hands stained purple and sticky from grape juice,
are hard at work, but always good natured and never too busy
to have fun with passers by who wish to take pictures.

Lining up at the Cave Cooperative you see load after load of grapes come in,
unload, get their receipt for the load, and check on the sugar content before heading back to the fields.
This happens daily and continues until all the grapes have been picked
and it’s time to trim the vines and let them rest over the winter,
in preparation for next year's crop.   As the fall progresses,
 the clippings will be burned in bonfires right in the vineyards all around the area
- signalling the beginning of the winter season. Then the  cycle will start again.

All of this is happening right about now in Sablet.  I hope you enjoy some of the pictures of the 2009 Vendange – here’s to a great  2010 vintage!

2011 Update

I heard a few days ago that the Vendange has already begun in Provence - early this year, but the grapes are ready!

Here's to a great vintage! 

Paris to Avignon by TGV - High Speed Train to a Relaxed Vacation!

Our guests often ask what is the best route to Sablet .......

There are several ways to get to Provence (Sablet, in particular) - Airplane to Marseille and drive to Sablet, Airplane to Nice and drive to Sablet, Airplane to Paris and drive to Sablet .... but ..... our favorite route is Airplane to Paris .... TGV to Avignon, then drive to Sablet.  It is probably also the most efficient way to get there, as well as, believe it or not, a more relaxed entree to your Provencal vacation - albeit at 280 kilometers or 174 miles per hour! 

 View of Avignon TGV Station Main Hall.  

Notice the blue signs that direct you to the platforms.

I love getting on board at Charles de Gaulle Airport TGV Station after a long flight and settling in to a comfortable seat.  Watching as the train starts and travels at a more leisurely pace through the suburban stations, past the tall Parisian buildings and whizzing out through the countryside. 

As we get going the appropriate announcements take place, it's time to visit the restaurant carriage before it gets too crowded.  Mustn't forget to leave the ticket in the seat pocket so the conductors can check it as they come by.  The food, drinks and snacks on the TGV are pretty good - they have quite a variety that includes sandwiches, hot foods, chips, cookies and cake as well as tea, coffee, water - both still and sparkling - (Plate* and Gazeuse), juices, some soft drinks and wine. This is usually the afternoon train, so let's settle in with a cup of tea and a snack cake - time to relax - we're going to Provence.

As we progress on our journey, not long in time but nevertheless speeding south, the style of the houses and buildings change from the white walled, dark steep roofed  homes in the north and central provinces, to the simpler, warmer styles in earth tones which are characteristic of the south, with their ochre toned tile roofs.

Before you know it, we're whizzing across the Rhone River for the first time - about 10 minutes out of Avignon.  Time to get all the luggage and head down to the exit area for Arrival.  As we pull into Avignon TGV Station - it's like an old friend, and it's nice to be back........... 

A few practical hints for traveling in France via the TGV

>  Book your tickets in the US or your country of origin, before you head out - it is much less expensive.  In the US, www.Rail Europe.com is a very helpful website.  You can use the interactive map, especially helpful if you plan to travel within Europe by train.  You can book tickets a that site up to two months in advance, but don't leave it too late as they mail your tickets to you in the US or your home country.

>  Be sure to check out the Rail Passes, as they can save you quite a lot of money.

>  To prepare for your TGV trip - please look at the pictures below - they will help you understand the system, especially if you are a first time TGV passenger.

 The Monitor shows the Number of the Train and its destination.  

The blue sign directs you to the Platform Number.

Please Note: "Voie" means Platform 

1.  Look for your Train Number and Platform Number.

  

Lighted Sign Boards show the composition of your train, eg. how many carraiges etc.

Your Train Ticket will have a Seat Number and a Carriage Number printed on it.

Carriage may be written as "Voiture" on your ticket.

2. Check your Carriage Number and locate it on the diagram of the train.

 

Check the lighted sign board for your train. It shows: 

A.  The destination of the train above the diagram; 

in this case the final destination of the train is Lille, Flanders;  

B. The numbers are of each Carriage on the train. eg. 01,  02,  03 etc.;  

C. Below the diagram of the train, you will see a series of Letters, eg. T, W etc.  

These numbers correspond to the position on the platform 

that you should wait, so you will be near to the door closest to your seat, when the train arrives at the station.

3.  Find the Platform Position Letter that matches your Carriage Number.

        

4. Validate your ticket at one of the Yellow Stands before you go to the Platform

5. "X" marks the spot! Find the correct Letter for your carraige..... the train will soon arrive.

6.  Once Aboard and at your seat .... One of the conductors will come by to check your ticket - have it ready, or if you leave your seat to go to the Restaurant Carriage, leave it in the seat pocket.  

 If you would like to take a short early Sunday Morning TGV ride from Avignon to Paris ....... let's go........

Bon Voyage and Bonnes Vacances!

*Plate - Pronounced "plat" 

Late Addition:  I have always said that we have the "Best and Smartest" guests! It has been proven again - I just heard from one of our guests that Rail Europe now has an E Ticket option, so you can book tickets at the last minute and download them at home.  Also, they tell me that these tickets do not need to be validated at the Station - there's one less step needed!  

Please Note however, that this method can be used if you are purchasing Tickets only - it appears that if you are purchasing a Rail Pass of any kind, it still needs to be done ahead of time, as they are still mailed to you at your home address. 

Dave - Thanks so much for the update!

Fete Votive and Hot August Nights!

                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

“Il Fait Vachement Chaud!”     That’s what this irresistible picture of a heat exhausted dog seems to say.      Yes …. It was August in Provence – hot days, warm evenings - the kind of weather that reminds us of the wisdom of the Provençaux, who many years ago planted Plane trees that would grow up to tower over the parched ground and spread their branches, creating sanctuaries under their cool green canopies.  This dog was serious about staying cool taking full advantage of the shaded stone bench with his head in a moist flower pot.  The scene was in Villdieu, a pretty little village about 20 minutes from Sablet where the village square and surrounding buildings are sheltered from the blistering afternoon sun by five very large Plane trees. As we enjoyed a cool drink in the shade my mind went back to our first visit to Villedieu, last year – also in August.  


    That evening, the square had been filled with tables covered with large squares of white paper, set with plates, knives , forks, wine glasses and serviettes -  dinner for the whole village – and visiting guests.  It was the Fête Votive, the annual celebration held in all Provençal villages which celebrates the patron saint of the village.  We were fortunate to be invited to this celebration by one of our neighbors in Sablet, who had worked in Villedieu for many years and so, had many friends there. Dinner was to be a “Grande Aioli” – a specialty, which we had yet to experience. When we drove into Villedieu  for the festivities we were greeted by a rain shower, which had everyone looking nervous, but fortunately it was brief, as many rain showers in this area are.  


    It turned out to be a warm, balmy evening. Dinner commenced with cool, sweet, locally grown melon before the Grande Aioli. We weren’t quite sure what to expect, but what a wonderful surprise! This unassuming, yet delightfully fresh meal consisted of cool poached Cod, and steamed potatoes, carrots, green beans, cauliflower and a hard boiled egg, all served with the most delicious, most garlicky, freshly made mayonnaise known as Aioli.  The fish was fresh, fresh, fresh.  The vegetables crisp and flavorful.  This dish became an instant favorite with us – so simple yet so delicious – so very Provençal.  The main course was so delicious that I don’t even remember what desert was!  


    Then, it was time for the dancing to start. Towards the end of dinner, the band took its place on stage.   The music was fun, upbeat, alternating French, English, Spanish and sometimes Italian! We were amazed at the versatility of this group – they sang everything from Provençal songs to American rock.  The music and dancing went on until the early hours of the morning.  We danced, talked with our friends, learned about a wonderful special meal, met new friends and saw how festive the annual village celebration was – friends and neighbors getting together to just enjoy a summer evening with a great meal, lively  music good company.  I don’t know what time it finished, but we left at around 1.30am and went home to our nice quiet beds.

      
            Sablet en Fete!        
                                                                           
  

    In all our years of visiting France, this was our first experience with the “Fete Votive” – but – walking down to Sablet village the next morning, we stopped to talk with one of our neighbors and told her about the fete we had attended the night before.  She asked, “…. and did you enjoy it?”  “Oh yes, very much,” we replied.  “Bien, bien” she said -  “Sablet’s Fete Votive is next week and it will last for three days, with music and dancing every night …”  That will be fun! 

    During the next week we thoroughly enjoyed going down into our village – having dinner at one of the restaurants  and listening to music with its amazing (for our small village) show (was this Sablet or Las Vegas??!!), seeing the kids having fun on the helicopter ride and eating their way through gigantic masses of “barbe de papa” (candy floss).  It was a carnival like side of Sablet we had not yet seen, all ages from small children on the rides or ring toss, groups of teenagers, villagers and visitors all having fun and making the most of the festivities that go on well into the night!    
    This is early August in Provence – high summer weather and celebrations which bring a whole new meaning to “Hot August Night”.   
 
"Il fait vachement chaud"  -  It Is Reeeaaalllly Hot!

2011 UPDATE

In the last three years, Sablet's Fete Votive has expanded to five days. 

Kicking it off this year on Friday evening, was an old favorite

- Country Dancing.  It is so much fun to hear the Country music 

and see the dancers dressed in cowboy boots and hat!  

A little bit of Country in the heart of Provence!

Below is the "affiche" showing the schedule of events 

for the 2011 Sablet Fete Votive

- Bonne Fete a tous!

 

Fireworks in Monteux - Provence

 The time:  10pm …… the place:  the sports field in the village of Monteux, Provence, France ............  

    “Bonsoir Mesdames, bonsoir Mesdemoiselles, bonsoir Messieurs,”  the narrator’s voice boomed out over the very large open air sports field, where we had found a small patch of ground to park our folding chairs … along with about forty-three thousand of our closest friends from the village and beyond!  It was time …….

    The narrator continued, “…. The village of Monteux is happy to welcome you to our traditional fireworks display which takes place every August.  We hope to help you spend an excellent evening.”

    “True to our tradition of the art of fireworks and this theatre, this evening we propose a voyage on a theme:  ‘Lilix, Princesse de Vix’.  The voyage is going to take is to the home of the Gaulles, to Vix in Burgundy, during the 6^th Century AD.”

    “So, Mesdames et  Messieurs ….. our virtual spaceship will soon be taking off,……. Prepare yourself to depart, …… attach your seatbelts,  forget everything, I said forget everything, ….let your imaginations go free, ….. let yourself be transported by the magic of the evocation pyrotechnique!”
                    
                        The official "affiche" publicising the 2009 "Feu d'Artifice"

    Yes, another hot August night in Provence….. and this is one of the best known fireworks displays in France.   How did we come to be here? Earlier that week,  we had bumped into our neighbor and friend, Père Pierre the curé in Sablet.  Of course we stopped to say, “Bonjour” and have a little chat.   He asked us, “Are you free on Friday night?” “yes,” we said.  He told us about the “grand spectacle” of the “feu d’artifice”  in Monteux.  He said he would be meeting his niece and family there and invited us to join them.  He didn’t need to ask twice!  Our first experience with a  choreographed fireworks display had been in the delightful seaside village of Cassis in the early 1980’s.  We had thoroughly enjoyed it and so were very much looking forward to seeing another.

    On the appointed evening, we had arranged to all have an early dinner in our courtyard and leave by 8.30pm for Monteux, with folding chairs at the ready.  On the drive, Père Pierre told us that it would be best to park on the outskirts of the village …. “and be sure to turn the car around, towards getaway direction!”  We followed his directions and parked what turned out to be about 3 kilometers away from the sports field, and joined the growing procession of fireworks lovers, on our pilgrimage to an adventure.  On arrival, we were faced with a sea of people and the challenge was to find a good spot from which to view the show – no problem, even in a crowd, everyone was in good humor and made room.   Ready!  As the sun started to set,  excitement mounted  ….. until the announcer boomed out over the PA system and  for the next 45 minutes we would be on a journey “de la pyrotechnie, extraordinaire”.

    The countdown started….. 10…..9….8 …… 7……………….. etc., ”c’est parti!” Liftoff!   For several seconds bright light beams criss-crossed the skies above us, creating the ambience of travelling in a spaceship…. The narrator  guided us on our virtual journey through the skies over the cities between Monteux and Vix …. Bollene,  Montelimar, Lyon…on and on until he commanded,
                                                                                     “Stop! We’re here!”

       

      Our eyes were transfixed on the heavens and we were mesmerized by what we saw and heard……..  we watched the changing moods of the light and sound displays as they proceeded from act to act – from the tears of despair to the force of battle and joyful bursts of celebration,  detailing the story of Lilix, the young, recently widowed princess  of Vix, a community rich in precious metals and well situated on a commercial route, that was the envy of communities around them. Most envious of all the people of Arverne, a much less well endowed area, but none the less the area that was home to Lilix, before she married the now deceased Prince of Vix.  From the heavy and dramatic opening scene of Lilix and her mentor Myrdinn forced to decide if she would go to war, in order to repel the invasion by the Avernes  (her  friends and family),  then their victory as the result of a well planned  and executed surprise early morning attack, followed  by the shrewd decision by the leader of the Avernes  -   suggesting  that a marriage between the Princess of Vix and one of the handsome young warriors of Averne would be a better way to create peace and prosperity for both communities.  Lilix of course, was at first conflicted by the idea, and again sought the counsel of Myrdinn who in his wisdom recommended  the marriage and seven days of great festivities to celebrate.  The fireworks exquisitely illustrated the story.

    As the last spectacular burst of fireworks lit up the sky and Lilix and her new husband headed off to live happily ever after, the crowd sat completely enthralled,  wishing the show wouldn’t stop, but glad to have the happy ending.  Applause broke out – loud and long lasting, appreciation of the outstanding artistry was clearly evident by attendance and reaction.  As the crowd started to move, we were still talking about the wonderful spectacle we had just seen – the combination of storyline, music and superb pyrotechnics was magnificent and definitively “for –mi –dable!”

    Spirits were high and excitement was still in the air as we gathered our belongings, refolded the chairs and started to make for the outskirts of town where the getaway vehicle awaited us.  The exit was much slower than our entry to the stadium.  Many other vendors and shows had started up as the fireworks ended and were taking advantage of the crowd flowing through the village.  Reaching the middle of the village, we were starting to see the wisdom of Père Pierre’s parking recommendation as we watched cars jostling to try to get out of the parking lot and get away on the narrow village roads.  That little village parking lot and the surrounding roads look very much like the A7 Autoroute heading south on the last week end in July!  We chatted, having fun as we walked and walked until we reached the outward facing car, on the outskirts of the village well beyond the “circulation bouché”. 

    At sometime past midnight we drove back into our by now quiet little village of Sablet – still heaping praise on Père Pierre for his brilliant and extremely generous invitation to us,  in sharing his friends, his family and this very memorable evening with us. 

2011 UPDATE

The blog above is from the 2009 "Feu de Monteux".  This Year's Feu de Monteux carries the theme:

"Avec Toi - la Libertie" - With You - There's Liberty"  a tribute to the United States - going back to the end of the 19th Century and onwards.  The fireworks will take you on a voyage down the road to liberty.  

If you are in Provence on Friday August 26th - head to the sports field in Monteux - get there early - even though the show does not start until 10pm - take a picnic dinner and stake out a good spot - This display of fireworks is one show -  not to be missed!

The beautiful 2011 "affiche" is below.

"Affiche" -  Poster 

Remember - Friday August 26th,2011 - at the Sport Field ("Stade") in Monteux, Provence

Nougat noir

Just found this great blog about Nougat Noir at  http://blog.unmomentenprovence.com/
Nougat noir

Entertaining ….. Provençal style ……. Mise en Place!

“….. and there we are Marianne, mise en place!”

Those were the words that finished my first session of cooking with Johannis, our friend, neighbor and Chef extraordinaire at Restaurant Les Abeilles in Sablet.  We had just finished a session in which he taught me how to make puff pastry.  But we didn’t just stop at learning how to make puff pastry, he also showed me how to turn that puff pastry in to ready made hors d’ouvres to always have in the freezer for those times when unexpected guests pop in, or when you are entertaining and want to concentrate on dinner and not have to worry about what happens before.  Since that time, he has shown me how to make Gougères – small savoury puffs made using a base of Choux pastry, and Grissini – the crisp, savory Italian breadsticks that you so often see in gourmet grocery stores.  This was always in addition to whatever it was that  I went there to learn,  All easy to make ahead and have ready in the freezer to just pop in the oven and serve!

Johannis’s  motto  “mise en place”, really came into its own a few weeks ago.  My husband heard from an old friend he had worked with many years  ago, that he and his wife were going  to be in town for the weekend. He invited them for dinner, along with a few of other friends who all  wanted  to see them.  Seventeen to be exact!  It was great fun to have everyone together  again.    As far as dinner was concerned  ………..“don’t worry, we’ll have a barbecue….”  

Fortunately, the hors d’ouvres were already done…….. and ….. very, very  fortunately …… I had two batches of Johannis’s  Nougat Glacé  - a fantastic, creamy nougat ice-cream that I had learned to make last year in Sablet).  That was two courses, which only left  the main course to take care of …… not so hard.  I must say though,  that the Dessert was the star of the show!  Eating  Nougat Glacé is like eating a creamy cool version of one of my favorite candies.  I almost always order it when we visit Les Abeilles.  It is made from a combination of Nougat Noir, confit fruits, rich whipped cream and  Meringue Italienne.   I decided that this should be a truly Provençal dessert, so I  made Tuile cookies to serve with it. The cookies were  filled with raspberries and blueberries coated with a shiny glaze of reduced Beaumes de Venise (from Domaine de la Pigeade), and a Raspberry Coulis drizzled around.    

 ……….  Heaven!               ……….. Can’t wait to get back to Sablet!

         Bubbling sugar, on its way to the golden rich caramel for Nougat Noir

 

Rich, golden caramel - packed with whole almonds - ready to spread on a cookie sheet - Nougat  Noir!

The Meringue Italienne glistens as the hot sugar and honey syrup is added while the egg whites are whipped.

Voila!  les Abeilles Nougat Glace!  I was busy serving desert and didn't take a picture of my Nougat Glace - so here's a picture of  the delicious desert I  had at Les Abeilles!

Bon Apetit!

Gougeres - start with a base of a quantity of Choux pastry - then add your favorite savory flavors - Dijon mustard, Parmesan Cheese, herbs, toasted caraway seeds or cumin seeds, crumbled bacon bits, chopped olives, small shrimp etc., etc.  Scoop into small balls and place on a cookie sheet in a single layer and freeze.  when frozen, place them in zip lock bags and there we are ..... mis en place!  When you want to serve, preheat oven to 425 degrees, place on a parchment paper lined cookie sheet, glaze with an egg wash and if you wish sprinkle with a favorite topping. Bake for 10 minutes or until they are golden brown and puffed!  No need to defrost.


Nougat Noir - a rich dark caramel, choc full of whole toasted almonds (unpeeled) spread on a cookie sheet.  When cool, break into bite sized pieces.


Meringue Italienne - stiffly beaten egg whites into which is poured hot sugar syrup whilst beating.  This action cooks the meringue, and is used for recipes that do not call for any further cooking of the meringue.


Tuile Cookies - "tuile" is the French work for tile and these delicate cookies are still pliable when cooked.  The traditional recipe calls for them to be draped over a rolling pin to make the shape of a roof tile, although they are often shaped as cones or draped over a small cup or bowl to make a pretty and delicate cookie container.


Glazes for fruit - in this case, I used Muscat Beaumes de Venise which was gently simmered to reduce it to a thick syrupy glaze - delicious.   I have however, used other "left over" white or rose wines in the same way - especially if you have a sparkling wine that the bubble has gone out of.  Once the glaze is made, it will be last for quite some time in an airthight jar in the refrigerator.

What's a Vide Grenier in Provence?

As a Markets of Provence enthusiast, I was delighted when I read an "affiche" (poster), on a door near the Bibliotheque announcing a "Vide Grenier" in Sablet!

Although we had been there for the Brocantes (Antiques Markets) that take place a coupe of times a year during the Spring/Summer, this was our first Sablet Vide Grenier! 

What's a Vide Grenier?

Vide means empty.  Grenier means Attic.  Literally translated, it means empty attic...... get the drift?

A vide grenier - held in many towns and villages around Provence - is like a village-wide yard sale or the Peddler's Fairs in some small towns, all with a delightful twist that many of the "greniers" - when emptied, yield beautiful antiques - furniture, china, silverware, tools, linens etc.

Along with the residents of the village, outside semi-professional vendors who have access to what the French call, "brocante" from houses that are being remodeled and so on, bring their items for sale.

We were looking out for items for our newly purchased "la Baume des Pelerins" and our fellow Sabletains did not disappoint.

Amongst it all we found some "must have" items. First was a beautiful porcelain font.  Perfect for a corner and decorated with a burgundy scroll-like pattern on a cream background - finished with a dainty brass faucet. This was just perfect for la Baume des Pelerins!

Next was something I had wanted for a long time. An old copper preserving pan!  I just couldn't resist taking it back and starting a batch of Plum and Rosemary Jam.  The plums were from the market and the Rosemary was from our own courtyard garden at Maison des Pelerins.

This pan was something that would have been found in many farm kitchens and was the perfect size for a batch of preserves.

This wonderful "find" came home to California with me and is very helpful in the production of jams,      

relishes and pickles.

One of our Apple trees (completely laden with almost ripe apples) fell over two weeks ago and I have wheelbarrow loads of apples, waiting to become Apple Jelly perhaps with some thyme or lemon balm from the herb garden to add a little extra flavor.

A yellow traditional Provencal "Boutis," (a quilta) a "Tapis"(an area rug), an ochre wall light fixture and some pottery completed our day's shopping at the Vide Grenier.

 

Sablet - Provence - Vide Grenier - something for everyone!

 

Shoppers spend a warm afternoon looking for treasure at the Vide Grenier - Sablet

What a fun day - time well spent with neighbors and some very economical shopping!  I can't wait for the next one.

If you will be traveling in Provence, look out for the "affiches" advertising Vide Greniers in the local villages - they are a lot of fun!