Rolling Down The River ....

... A leisurely ride on the Petit Rhone ...

... as August rolls on ... the hottest time of the year in Provence, referred to as "la canicule" has everyone running for shade and cool places, and it's the time when your mind turns to water ... lots of it!  Whether it's the pool, the beach, a river is immaterial. We decided it was time to visit the Camargue that we had heard so much about.  Early one morning, we pointed la petite coccinelle (as our little new Beetle convertible is known as in our village), in the direction of the Camargue.

Blue on blue - beach umbrellas and the blue Mediterranean

The drive from Sablet to the Camargue takes you through some very well known spots such as Nimes and Arles, which is the last big town before you enter the Parc Naturel Regional de Camargue - in the Rhone River Delta.

Wildlife on the beaches and grassy fields of the Camargue

 This area with its large grassy fields is home to "taureau" ranches and riding stables -  for the well known white horses of the Camargue.  We passed lots of open air stands selling local pottery and other local artifacts, but there was one pottery stand that caught my eye and we made a note of it so we could stop by on the way back.

Provence - Camargue - Saintes Maries de la Mer - a pretty little seaside town

After an hour or so, we arrived at Saintes Maries de la Mer, although busy and crowded at this time of the year, a very pretty little town with a usual population of about 2,000 people which no doubt swells by several thousand at this time of year. This little town is on a little spit of land surrounded by "etangs" (bays), at the very entry to the Rhone Delta

Saintes Maries de la Mer - Place des Gitans

We were lucky to find a parking spot near the Place des Gitans where we stopped for a cool drink and to take a look at their statues of famous Camarguaise bulls - black in color with their distinctive up swept horns .  The bulls not only regularly feature on restaurant menus in this area - they are also the stars of the "Courses Camarguaises" which is the Provencal version of bullfights.

Trainees of the school for Raseteur in Arles, Bouche du Rhone, France

 Unlike their Spanish counterparts, happily the Provencal bulls are not hurt as a part of the "bull game", instead the object of the Courses Camarguaises is for the Toreador to remove a small bow from the bull's head.

By now the temperature was climbing, (although it was still much cooler than the temperature we had left), and it was time for a short drive of a few kilometers down the D38 from Saintes Maries de la Mer, to the docking point for our paddle boat - the Tiki lll.

Paddle boat rounds the corner on its way back to Saintes Marie de la Mer

There was something instantly refreshing about the sight of the cool, pale blue water where fishermen stood by the rocks, their lines cast out.  After a few minutes, waiting at the dock where a cool onshore breeze offered relief from the hot August day, the paddle boat Tiki lll rounded the corner, making its way back loaded with sightseers.

The paddleboat - Tiki lll

Not too long afterwards, we were making our way across the gangplank and onto the paddle boat.  For the next couple of hours, we cruised up and then back down the Petit Rhone.

Gardien watches as the cattle and horses graze

Camargue wildlife on the Petit Rhone

Homes on the banks of the Petit Rhone

Past the the grassy marshlands full of birds feeding, horses coming down to the water to quench their thirst on a hot day, the houses and private docks  of the people who had come down to this area to help to preserve the Parc Regional Naturel de Camargue many years ago, on to the area where we paused to watched the elegant Gardien on his white horse, bring his charges down to the riverbank to graze on the indigenous and plentiful grass - salicorne, and quench their thirst at the river.  From there, we quietly made our way back to the dock that we started from, enjoying the cool breeze coming off the water.

Camargue Flamingos always elegant

It was now well past lunchtime and notwithstanding our best intentions of stopping back in Saintes Maries de la Mer, it was by now very very busy and we opted for one of the open air restaurants  a little further out in along one of the Camargue roads that prominently advertised its "Taureau".

Colorful pottery of the Camargue

One more stop, at the Pottery Stand that I had seen earlier for some brightly colored coffee mugs for Maison des Pelerins and two pretty flower pots, and then back to Sablet. 

The Knights Templar in Provence

One of the ironies surrounding the story of the Knights Templar – the Warrior Monks as they came to be known, is that they were formed  in  Jerusalem around the year 1118 as the "Order of the Poor Knights of the Temple of Solomon", to maintain the security of the newly established Kingdom of Jerusalem, and protect pilgrims visiting the Holy Land at the end of the First Crusade of 1096.  However,  it is speculated that their end which was first initiated in the year 1307 and completed by 1312, was brought about by the fact that they had amassed extreme wealth and influence. They were brought down in a rather spectacular fashion by King Philip IV (Philip the Fair of France - who was heavily indebted to the Knights Templar), and Pope Clement V who had established the Popes in Avignon in the year 1309.

Jacques de Molay, the last leader of the Knights Templar - from a 19th Century color lithograph by Chevauchet 

The disbanding of this Order began on Friday 13^th of October 1307, when Philip ordered all of the Templars in France to be  arrested and imprisoned for “Satanism and other unnatural acts and practices.”  Many were found guilty after torture-encouraged confessions and others for refusing to confess.  In March 1314, Jacques de Molay, the leader of the Knights Templar,  who had spent the previous several years in prison for being a relapsed heretic was burned at the stake on the Ile-des-Javiaux in the River Seine.

Two Templars burned at the stake, from a French 15th century manuscript 

During the nearly two hundred years that the Knights Templars operated between Western Europe and Palestine, the “Templars” as their official title was abbreviated to, not only set up secure routes for pilgrims traveling from Europe to the Holy Land, but also established the first “Banking System”. 

12th century stone marking Hugo de Bolboton founder of the Templars of Richeranches in 1136 - in the Church at Richeranches

When men joined the Order, they took an oath of poverty and donated all their wealth and lands to the Knights Templar,  and in 1127 when they received their first large donation of land, it began a flood of many such donations  and special privileges granted to the Order by various Monarchs and Popes.   This together with the spoils of battles, lead to the amassing of a true fortune, and a great deal of power, having received an edict from the Pope which gave them authority to operate across the borders of many countries,  but made them answerable only to Pope himself.

This placque at the Commanderie in Richeranches tells of the Arrest and trial of the leaders of the Templars

The Order was the first bankers who set up the basis of the system that is still in use today.  Their banking activities included, loans to Monarchs of both England and France to finance the Crusades, transporting money and valuables between Palestine and Europe, lending money to pilgrims traveling to the Holy Land and setting up a system whereby a landowner leaving to travel to the Crusades or on a Pilgrimage, could deposit their assets with the Knights Templar in their home country, and travel with a form of a Letter of Credit, which enabled them to make withdrawals from their account at other locations.  

Courtyard of the Commanderie des Templiers - Richeranches

The Knights Templar set up an extensive network of Commanderies from Europe to  Palestine. These Commanderies were support bases for the Knights and Pilgrims whilst on their journey. They also served as training centers for young knights in training and retirement centers for older knights.  The support systems included not only the knights who were the heavy cavalry, but assistants to these knights, known as sergeants who were equipped as light cavalry and drawn from a lower social class than the knights.  There were farmers who worked the land  for the production of food, and other agricultural products such as corn, wool, oil and cattle that were used locally as well as to supply the Holy Land  – they cared for and administered the properties.  The spiritual life of the Order was seen to by the Chaplains of the Commanderie, who were all ordained priests.

Templar Artifacts at the Office de Tourisme in Richeranches, housed in the old Commanderie

Provence has a number of towns that were home to Commanderies of the Knights Templar.  Close to Sablet and our vacation rental homes there is a particularly good example of such a main Commanderie in the town of Richeranches.  Here, the Commanderie was erected on land donated by Hugo de Bolboton, a local land owner who was committed to the cause of the crusades.   The fortified structure followed a common square courtyard layout with a Chapel and  a refectory at opposite ends of the structure.  Although many of the original buildings of this Commanderie have been destroyed or incorporated into other  structures of the village, the Refectory building, the Dining and Meeting Halls of the original Commanderie is still intact and perhaps one of the best preserved in Europe.  The Commanderie in Richeranches became an important center for horse breeding.  The constant need for horses during this time of warfare required a steady supply of sturdy animals and Richeranches horses became known as the best breed to carry the burden and heavy armor of the knights during battle. 

The Templar Cross on the roundabout leading to Richeranches, reminds visitors of the Village's history as a commanderie

The Commanderie at Richeranches carried a high designation on the same level as those of Aix-en-Provence and Arles, and therefore had subsidiary Commanderies in Orange, Roaix, Villedieu and Montélimar, with other support centers for the Templars in Cairanne and Vacqueyras.

Cave Cooperative at Richeranches - known as the Caveau des Templiers

Despite the uncertainty associated with this group of Warrior-Monks, certain aspects of their legacy appear to be remarkable.  Their temporal contribution to the safe transit of the pilgrims was direct and real, but their ongoing contribution to the modern facility of international banking may be their real legacy. 

Since the official disbanding of the Knights Templar, many myths have persisted including stories of - treasure found at the Temple Mount in Jerusalem and hidden by the Templars;  the Knights possession of the Holy Grail and the Ark of the Covenant;  Recent authors in books of historical fiction have linked them to them to the Rosicrucians, the Priory of Sion, the Rex Deus, the Cathars, the Hermetics, the Gnostics, the Essenes, and, ultimately, lost relics or teachings of Jesus such as the Shroud of Turin or a "Judas Testament." Interest in some of these claims has been sparked by The Da Vinci Code by  Dan Brown.

Provence As A Part Of The Roman Empire

Beyond the fields of sunflowers, vineyards, lavender fields and olive groves, it is impossible to drive through the Provencal countryside without noticing the remnants of the Roman colonization of the area which began in 120 BC and continued for 600 years, until the second half of the 5th Century AD when they were displaced by the Visigoths.

The Pont Julien near Bonnieux, was a part of the old Via Domitienne

Evidence of Roman presence can be seen throughout the area, even in the smallest towns and villages.  You will find yourself crossing an old Roman bridge at Vaison la Romaine, or Bedarrides or Pont Julien near Bonnieux where the bridge provided the river crossing for the ancient Via Domitienne.  The Romans  built roads to connect major cities in the Empire, some of which are still in use.  Via Aureilienne was the major artery that connected Rome and Arles. It's route passed Aix en Provence and Salon de Provence and today the RN 7 between Aix en Provence and Nice, follows the much of the same route, whilst in an area just east of Tourtour in the Var, a long section of this 1,700 year old road is still in use.

Map of Gallia Narbonensis showing Roman Towns and old Roman roads - image source - www.explorethemed.com

Rome established a foothold in the area when the inhabitants of Massilia (today Marseille), a Greek city at that time, asked for Rome's help in battling the Celtic tribes of the interior.  The newly established Roman Empire (125 BC), anxious to connect Italy to their newly won territories in Spain (a result of the wars with Carthage), was only too pleased to "help", and by 120 BC, the Roman Empire had spread across the entire southern coast of what they then called "Transalpine Gaul" (France).  Provence, as a sub region of Transalpine Gaul, first became known as Provincia Nostra.  As the Empire spread throughout the Mediterranean, the name Provincia became confusing as there were many Provincae Nostrae, so it was renamed Gallia Transalpina for a period of time, before the Emperor Augustus finally named it "Gallia Narbonesis," with its capital Narbo Martius  - today's Narbonne. This new capital was intended to divert trade from the still Greek and wealthy city of Massilia and the Rhone Valley.

In Vaison la Romaine, Roman vestiges can be seen throughout the town

Treating the Provinces as an extension of Rome, Emperor Augustus granted land in the Provinces to landless legionnaires as a reward for victories.  They could settle with their families, so securing the territory for the Empire and work the land producing food and materials for sale in Rome.  The facilities of each settlement were an important element in the stability of each community, therefore "mini Romes" were constructed in each settlement complete with theatres, baths, forums and arenas.

In Arles, the Roman Arena seats 26,000 people

Arles was the first such settlement - given to the Sixth Legion of Julius Caesar after their victory in the battle with Pompei at Marseille, quickly becoming known as "the little Rome of the Gauls".  Amongst the many Roman sites in this town, the Arena built in the 1st Century AD is probably the most notable. It seats 26,000 people who gathered to watch gladiators during Roman times, but today the amphitheatre, which is 150 yards long and about the width of a football field is used mainly for "les Courses Camarguaises" - Bullfights Provencal style, where the bull does not get hurt.  Not so well preserved are the remains of the Theatre Antique which once was a very grand structure for up to 7,000 theater goers. Now reduced to a few rows of seats and the orchestra pit, it can be seen, and still serves as one of the venues for the annual Arles Music and Drama Festival.

A beautifully preserved monument in the town of Orange - an Arc de Triomphe recognizes bravery during the Gallic wars.

The Second Legion were the recipients of the town of Orange for their heroic service during the Gallic wars.  This town, which now carries the name of the royal family of the Netherlands, is home  to two magnificently preserved Roman structures.  In the middle of town is  the Theatre Antique built just before the birth of Jesus Christ and is still in use today for the summer Cheorogies, where up to 7,000 spectators can be accommodated at any performance.  Notable aspects of this theatre are its incredible acoustics and an enormous screen wall, which serves as a backdrop for performances.  On the outskirts of the town, is an Arc de Triomphe - a monument to the Roman victories in the Gallic wars. Originally built on the Via Agrippa, today it is the majestic centerpiece of a very large roundabout.

In Nimes, the Maison Carree is a Roman Temple which was the inspiration for Thomas Jefferson when planning the State Capital building in Richmond, Victoria

Nimes, or Nemausus as it was known in Roman times, was bequeathed to the Legions which fought and defeated Antony and Cleopatra at Actium. Very quickly,  it began a transformation into a Roman town.  Within the impressive city walls built to enclose nearly a square mile in area was an amphitheatre, a forum with temples and a watchtower.  The best known of the Roman structures still standing in Nimes is the Maison Caree a Roman temple which served as the inspiration for Thomas Jefferson in planning the State Capital building in Richmond, Virginia. Today, it is a museum which is open daily to the public. The Arena, or Arenes, was modeled on the Colosseum in Rome and can seat up to 21,000 people.  It is considered the best preserved Roman amphitheatre in the world, but it is still home to Provencal bullfights or tennis matches in the summer.

The Pont du Gard

As the settlements in the south developed into a bustling towns with many prosperous residents, the need for a safe and steady supply of water began to grow.  This resulted in one of the most impressive feats of engineering and construction of Roman times. The Pont du Gard, is a majestic three tiered structure that was built to traverse the Gardon River at a fifteen storey height. Construction of this structure was started in 50 BC and was completed in less than 5 years.  It is built completely of hand cut stone blocks that took hundreds of men to hoist into position.  It stands today as the second tallest Roman structure in the world and has withstood many, many floods that have washed away much newer bridges.  The bridge and visitors center are open to the public daily.  The bridge is quite often the backdrop for concerts and fireworks displays.

Glanum - near St. Remy de Provence

Just outside St. Remy de Provence, lie the ruins of the old city of Glanum, which contains among other vestiges, a forum and thermal baths. Opposite Glanum are the ruins of  a mausoleum, and an Arc de Triomphe, which were constructed in approximately 30 AD.

The Old Roman Bridge at Vaison la Romaine over the Ouveze River

Vaison la Romaine - the nearest large town to Sablet, was a very prosperous Roman center.  Prior to its very gradual Roman conversion, it was the capital of a Celtic tribe - the Voconti.   The Gallo-Roman city developed around the villas already built along the Ouveze River.  The gradual Romanization of the town is credited for its success and stability. Vaison la Romaine became one of the richest cities in Gallia Narbonensis with numerous geometric mosaic pavements and a small theatre that has been refurbished and is open to the public. Roman vestiges can be seen throughout the town and the Visitor's Center provides information on locating the various monuments.

At Vaison la Romaine, Roman Vestiges show the pattern of the streets and the layout of the old Roman town

During the second half of the 5th Century, the area went through a period of instability following invasions by the Germanic tribes - the Visigoths in  the year 480, followed by the Ostrogoths, then the Burgundians and finally the Franks in the 6th Century.  These invasions coupled with the waning of the Roman Empire and the power it exercised it the region saw the end of the Roman Era in Provence.  The fact that so many structures and monuments have survived to this day, is a testament to the to quality of the workmanship of the times and the wealth and prosperity brought about during Roman times.