Our Vacation Rental Homes in Sablet, Provence

Sablet Village, Vaucluse, Provence, France
Maison des Pelerins and La Baume des Pelerins, or "les Pelerins" as we affectionately refer to our dream come true, of owning our own homes in Provence, are located in the heart of the Vaucluse. We thoroughly enjoy hearing from our guests to "les Pelerins" that they feel they are spending time in their own home in Provence. To be a part of village life, Sablet is the perfect place. "Les Pelerins" dates back to the time when the Popes administered the Catholic Church from Avignon, with a Papal Vice-Legat having a residence right here in Sablet. Our neighbor's home was the Vice-Legat's residence. Ours was one of the buildings that housed visitors and pilgrims and was connected to it, as we can see from the internal portals, and the front door of Maison des Pelerins. Hence the name - Pelerins is French for pilgrims. I hope this Blog will help you get to know Provence and live your Provencal Dream.
Showing posts with label Sablet village. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sablet village. Show all posts

Sunday, February 3, 2013

Baba au Yumm!


Picture this … it’s a coldish winter’s day in Provence .. Sablet to be exact, when  your  very kind neighbors across Grande Rue invite you for afternoon coffee.  It’s a pretty hectic day, because your vacation is coming to an end and you’re leaving the next day, but  one last chance to take a small break and visit with our good friends and neighbors is too good a chance to miss. 

View of the Village Square from the large picture window
As usual, their home is warm and welcoming when we arrive, and as usual we are in for a delicious home baked treat.  This day, however even we didn't realize how special the treat would be.   As our hostess prepared the coffee and the family gathered around the large, beautifully set  dining table,  by a large picture window overlooking the village square,  our host went out into the kitchen announcing that he had baked something for us.  

This is my copycat "Baba au Yumm" aka Baba au Mirabelle, made shortly after  we got  back to California
He came back presenting a beautiful “Baba au Rhum” (a rich yeast cake known as a Savarin, glazed with and soaked in a Rum syrup)  or so I thought – it was fabulous and we were all very impressed that our host had prepared it.  We knew his wife was an excellent Cuisinière, but had no idea that he also had such talent!  We were even more impressed that this was not in fact a Baba au Rhum, but it was his variation and was a Baba au Mirabelle!  What is Mirabelle and why did he choose this instead of Rum?  

Mirabelle Eau de Vie (literal translation  Eau de Vie - Water of Life)
Mirabelle is an Eau de Vie – a clear, colorless fruit Brandy, made from little Mirabelle plums and is a specialty of the Alsace – Lorraine Region of France where our hostess was born and raised.  Her family makes the most delicious Mirabelle and it is a real treat that we are able to enjoy this as a digestive after some wonderful dinners.  


Additionally, Mirabelle has been a favorite of my husband’s since we traveled through Alsace-Lorraine in the early 1980’s and just happened to be passing through at just the right time for the Mirabelle Festival.  Our very kind neighbor had created a wonderful, special dessert that we dubbed, the “Baba au Yumm” – but more than anything, we appreciated the thoughtfulness that went into this preparation.
Of course, when we got back home, I had to try this new variation and the results are pictured above – it’s a great dessert, not often served today, but is very classic and totally delicious.

Below is Martha Stewart's Recipe for Baba au Rhum: These are made as small, individual Babas - I made it as one large dessert in a bundt pan. If you prefer to make the syrup using a different liqueur, substitute it for the Rum - I used Mirabelle.

·              5 tablespoons lukewarm milk (100 to 115 degrees), plus 1 tablespoon milk
·         1/2 ounce fresh yeast
·         1 pound 2 ounces all-purpose flour, plus more for forming dough
·         1 tablespoon coarse salt
·         6 large eggs plus 1 large egg yolk
·         1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, slightly softened, plus more for molds
·         1/4 cup superfine sugar
·         Nonstick cooking spray
·         Rum Syrup made of 4 cups of Sugar dissolved in 2 cups of Rum (or other liqueur, if you prefer)
·         Whipped Cream, for serving (optional)
·         Cherries, for serving (optional)

1    Place milk and yeast in a small bowl; stir to dissolve.
      Place flour, salt, and eggs in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with dough hook attachment; add yeast mixture and mix on low speed to combine and knead, about 5 minutes. Scrape down sides of bowl with a spatula; knead on medium speed until smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes.
      In a large bowl, mix together butter and sugar. Add a few small pieces of butter mixture to dough; with the mixer on low, add remaining butter mixture, a little bit at a time. When all the butter mixture has been added, increase speed and continue mixing until smooth, shiny, comes away from the sides of the bowl, and is elastic, 6 to 10 minutes.
4    Butter a large bowl, transfer dough to prepared bowl, and cover with plastic wrap; let stand in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 2 hours.
5    Lift dough from bowl and drop back into bowl to deflate; repeat process once or twice. Cover bowl and transfer to refrigerator to chill for at least 8 hours and up to overnight.
   Butter 20 5-ounce baba molds and place on a baking sheet. Divide dough into 20 equal pieces; pinch each piece of dough to form balls. Place each ball of dough into prepared moulds.
7    In a small bowl, whisk together egg yolk and milk. Brush dough with egg yolk mixture, reserving remaining. Spray a piece of plastic wrap with nonstick cooking spray; cover dough, cooking spray-side down, and let stand in a warm place until doubled in volume, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
8    Preheat oven to 400 degrees in a convection oven (425 degrees in a conventional oven).
9    Working from the outside inward, brush each baba very lightly with reserved egg yolk mixture. Transfer molds to oven and bake until baba just begins to turn golden, about 5 minutes. Reduce temperature to 375 degrees (if using a convection oven; 400 if using a conventional oven) and continue baking until deep golden-brown and internal temperature reaches 205 degrees on an instant-read thermometer, 5 to 10 minutes more.
      Remove from oven and let cool in mold for 5 minutes. Unmold onto a wire rack and let cool completely. Poke bases of babas all over with a toothpick. Working in batches, gently drop babas into hot rum syrup, submerging completely; let soak until there are no more bubbles. Place on a rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. Repeat process with remaining baba; serve drizzled with additional rum syrup, whipped cream, and cherries, if desired.
Bon Apetit!



Saturday, February 25, 2012

Shopping in Sablet - a Truly Provencal Village

                Every Friday morning the weekly market in Sablet takes its place in the Village Square, known as the Aire de la Croix.


The Charcuterie Stall a the weekly market - looks like everything you need for Aperitifs - Some Saucisson, Cheese, perhaps some Pate .....
               It is still a fairly small market,  having started during summer 2011, but I'm sure that it will grow this year into a flourishing small town market as Sabletains, visitors taking vacation breaks in the village, and neighbors from nearby villages stop by to do their fresh fish, produce, cheese and charcuterie shopping......


The Fish Market stall has been visiting Sablet on Thursday mornings for a number of years. You can count on the freshest of fresh fish and shellfish
                  .........maybe take home some Couscous Royal for lunch from the stall at the market.

Couscous Royale for lunch anyone? Light and fluffy Couscous accompanied by a delicious, spicy sauce - a little bit of Morocco infused into your Provence vacation
Visitors to Provence and Sablet often comment on the friendliness of the "commercants" in the village. Whether your vacation is one week or two months, you are greeted with the same friendly smile and  customary, happy  "Bonjour Monsieur" or "Bonjour Madame" when you enter the shops. Help in finding  purchases - maybe even suggestions on how to prepare and serve whatever it is you are buying, is normal.  Presentations are always prepared with care and pride -  the displays are so inviting that you can't help but let your creativity and imagination go to work planning your next meal. When they know you like a particular item, they will make a point of remembering.
Good old fashioned service!

The Bureau de Toursime is right there off the village square
Over the years, our village has attracted a group of dedicated 
and hardworking shop keepers,hairdressers, artists and "Bureau de Tourisme".  The staff at the Bureau de Toursime are ready with helpful information, and to serve visitors with samples of wine from all the Sablet Vintners. They host scheduled informational walks around the village, recounting the history of Sablet over the centuries, and pointing out significant buildings. Without this group of people, working at their businesses daily,  then planning events for the inhabitants and visitors to Sablet, our village would certainly lack some of its ambiance, charm and fun.

Just off the Village Square, the Tabac carries a variety of newspapers, souvenirs and gifts.  It is also where you can buy a card to recharge your French "mobicarte" mobile phone.
Just in case you find yourself visiting Sablet .... let me introduce you to some of our Commercants ....  
that way, you'll already have friends in the village.

Madame Moulin - proprietor of the Boulanger Festival, presents an extensive variety of traditional and old fashioned bread, as well as many different whole grain breads.  All breads and patisseries are baked fresh daily on the premises.
Monsieur and Madame Pradier - proprietors of the Boulanger Pradier, where you can buy traditonal breads and patisserie.  Here they are pictured with the "Gallette de rois" or the Three Kings Cake a tradition in Provence at the feast of the Epiphany.  This picture is from the Sablet Blog
There's something about French bread that makes it hard to resist munching it as soon as you get it!
We have two Boulangeries - les Festival and  Pradier. If you are a guest spending your Provence vacation at Maison des Pelerins or la Baume des Pelerins,  the smell  fresh bread baking at the boulangeries of Monsieur & Madame Pradier who run the Boulangerie Pradier and the Moulin family who have the Boulangerie Festival, very early each morning, will be familiar to you. These bakeries open before 7am each day to make sure that everyone who comes can get their fresh bread, croissants and my favorite, Pain au Raisin (I'm addicted to these!) for breakfast each day.
What better way to start the day, than with a very cheerful,
"Bonjour Madame! Un pain au raisin et une baguette?" 
But be prepared, these guys are popular - the lines often stretch 
all the way out of the door!

Monsieur and Madame Fabre - proprietors of the Epicerie Vival Market - there's never a problem of running out of the essentials when you have the Vival Market within a few steps.
Next door ..... Monsieur & Madame Fabre, proprietors of  the Epicerie Vival (Mini) Market, have stocked the little market with everything you might need for your day to day living.

Charcuterie, wine and cheese .... what more can you want?
This store  is really like a small supermarket. It is packed full of fresh fruit and vegetables, milk, butter, yogurt, cheeses and other dairy products, cleaning products, a small deli (which includes a great selection of sausages) and a good selection of wine.

The attractively displayed produce is fresh and seasonal
It is SOOOO nice to be able to walk for less than two minutes down to the store 
to pick up something  when I run out.

Then ... we have the Pizza Restaurant, Pizza Comme Di (take out or sidewalk seating), and the Cafe - very important in the life of the village, as a meeting place.  It is impossible to stop in any time of day - early in the morning for a cup of coffee, or an aperitif in the evening without running into someone you know.

Bruno - the proprietor of the Cafe des Sports offers a warm welcome to all who stop by for a coffee first thing in the morning or an aperitif in the early evening. This picture was taken by Loran List, a professional photographer, who was one of our guests at Maison des Pelerins
Your host at the Cafe des Sports is Bruno, whose smiling face and warm greeting lets you know your in a friendly place. The cafe also has a casual restaurant "la Cornucopia" right next door - great for lunch or dinner.

The Restaurant Cornucopia displays its menu on easy to read boards.  As you can see, they serve both a Prix Fixe Menu and an a la Carte Menu for both lunch and dinner.  During the "season" they have special evenings such as the one known as the Fete des Belges, which means that the meal they serve that evening is the best Moules/Frites (Mussels Mariniere and French Fries) you have ever tasted!
The Restaurant les Remparts is a cosy place to have a meal in the Winter and cool relaxing spot on the Terrasse during the warm weather.
Likewise for les Remparts, another casual restaurant that serves a Prix Fixe menu and A La Carte menu at lunch and dinner - inside, or outside on their pretty terrasse 
in good weather.

Madame Bonnet - proprietor of GB Fleurs - always an display of gorgeous flowers and plants
Madame Giselle Bonnet who runs GB Fleurs - is a treasure. She makes a great contribution towards making Sablet a "beau village," as I heard one visitor describe our village.  It is impossible to walk past floral displays both inside and outside her store without stopping. Really nice to be able to pop in for a last minute gift of fresh flowers or a beautiful plant. She also holds Flower Arranging classes.  I know that at least on one occasion, Madame Bonnet has accompanied our neighbor, who looks after the garden/courtyard at Maison des Pelerins, to advise and supply the flowering plants for the garden and vegetables for our petite potager. Merci Madame ....

Hanging Ivy Geraniums decorate the wine barrels and fresh lavender joins the display of flowers outside GB Fleurs. Now.... do you see why it's so hard to walk past and not stop?
We spent the time in Sablet right after Christmas, and met Mr. Thierry Bonfils, our new butcher. Monsieur and Madame Bonfils took over the Boucherie about a year ago and there is universal admiration for the quality and well priced products he presents.


Monsieur Bonfils - don't hesitate to go into the store thinking you don't know the cuts of meat - he will patiently help you find just the right cut for your meal.
Don't worry about not knowing the French cuts of meat. Monsieur Bonfils is always cheerful and helpful, making sure you completely understand the cut of meat you inquire about, and if you wish to know, the best method of cooking it. Although he does not speak English, he has diagrams on the wall and he will show you exactly where the cut of meat you are considering comes from.  He has a wide variety of meat - beef, lamb, pork & chicken as well as pates, home made sausages and other charcuterie.

If you're not sure which cut will be best for the dish you are planning to make ... don't hesitate to ask. 
Over the years, I have heard many people say, "French lamb is great, but the beef is not the best." I now have news for everyone who has not had great beef in France - Come to Sablet.  I tried many cuts of beef during the three weeks we were there and I will say that they were all great, the Entrecote steak and short ribs were the best! While we were in there, 
I heard many people say, 
"we are so glad that Monsieur and Madame Bonfils are in Sablet."

and ... if your not in the mood to cook ... Monsieur and Madame Bonfils carry a good array of prepared dishes that are  ready to simply take home and heat.
Lastly, about a year ago,  Mme Roure who had owned the second Epicerie for many years retired  -  and we miss her smiling face in the village square.  Since her departure, the new owner of the building that housed her store, has spent all this time renovating the building and I am told that we will soon have our own Estethician!

Could it be possible?  Facials - perhaps a mini-spa?     I can't wait ...

This is a very brief introduction to the Commercants of Sablet.  There are many others such as the Hairdressers (very good), talented Artists, the Pharmacie, Banque and so on who haven't been mentioned here.  They will all treat you with the same care .... but I thought I would introduce those whom you are most likely to come into contact with on your vacation in Provence.

CLICK HERE To see a map of the village and the location of the shops.

Thursday, December 1, 2011

Santons - Provence's Little Saints


The Little Saints of Provence, or "Santons" as we know them, are a much loved and a very visible part of life in Provence at any time of year ...... at Christmas ... they really come into their own!

    Prior to Christmas,  the neighboring Village of Seguret hosts an "Exposition" of Santons.  Master Santonniers prepare an interpretation of their Village, and show how the Nativity scene and the Village would have looked at the time of Christ's birth
In this display, the Santonnier added a backdrop of a map to show where this scene is set
  
Every Christmas Market has several displays of Santons for market goers to take home 
to decorate their own Creches.  My previous Post about the Christmas Markets in Provence has many pictures of the Santonnier's Market Stands, so I have not included any of those pictures  in this Post.    In Provence, at Christmas you will find the little saints decorating shops, restaurants, markets, airports ... and of course, homes.

All the Village is there, with gifts to pay their respects to the Holy Family
The Manger is set in an open room, that is still characteristic of many Provencal homes - usually outfitted with a Kitchen and often referred to as a "summer room", where the family can cook and eat outdoors, yet out of the strong midday sun.


This Nativity is set in a Cabane - a Provencal sheep herder's shelter that is often seen out in the countryside

Santons were first seen at a Christmas Fair in Marseille in 1803, but their popularity spread quickly and Santonniers (makers of Santons), became one of the fixtures of each village.  

These artisan Santonniers lovingly and painstakingly produce the small statues 
either carved out of wood, or formed out of clay.  
After sculpting the Santons, the Santonnier 
carefully hand paints each figure, then dresses it.

Notice the small planter box of  wheat or lentil shoots at the bottom right  - another Provencal Christmas Tradition. On the 4th December, each family plants seeds of wheat or lentils and carefully tends them throughout Advent.  When the Nativity is laid out on Christmas Eve, the newly grown grass becomes a part of the Nativity scene.  The growth of the      grass tells how the next growing season will be.... if it is tall and straight - the season will be a good one                                  .... if is spotty or weak - the season will not be good.
Originally made to  represent the  figures seen customarily in the Nativity scene, the characters were soon expanded.  Since legend has it that Jesus was born in Provence, each Creche is decorated to show how the village as it would have been at the time of Jesus's birth.

All the village is on their way to pay their respects to the Holy Family - all the characters are included.

.......  we mustn't forget the Musicians!



The Nativity is shown in the village, so it is necessary to include the village residents. The butcher at work, the baker, the lavender lady carrying her bundles of lavender, the fisherman's wife taking her basket of fish to market, the Mayor, the Ladies who dance the Farandole etc., whatever was appropriate for the village.  In many villages, Santonniers actually carved the faces to resemble those in the village!


This Santonnier, placed the Santons against a  backdrop of painted canvas to show the setting of a small valley and the surrounding  craggy rocks


Right here in Seguret, Sablet's closest neighbor, Master Santonnier Phillipe Fournier practices his craft in a small workshop on Rue Poterne.  The workshop is also open throughout the year  for visits and sales. Each Christmas season, Seguret hosts an Exposition des Santons, which features Master Santonniers from throughout Provence. 



The elaborate scenes  are set up with interpretations of the Nativity Scenes from various parts of Provence. If you are planning to visit the area at Christmas and would like more information about the Exposition it is held at: Chapelle Sainte Thècle - Salle Delage, 84110 SEGURET   
Tel. : +33 (0)4 90 46 91 06        E-mail :  
The entrance fee is 2 Euros for adults - children are admitted free of charge.

Masion des Pelerins - our Santons spend their time in the bookshelves decorating the library area
Santons are made in a variety of sizes from the small for the average creche to a size that is commonly used as a part of the normal decorations in a home - such as the Tambourinaire (drummer) and the Lavender Seller  who decorate the bookshelves at Maison des Pelerins.

The Mantlepiece at Restaurant le Martinet near Sablet, decorated for Christmas with large Santons
These delightful "little Saints" are as synonymous with Provencal Christmas traditions,
  as are the "Treize Desserts".

Late Extra!
Last Saturday, I visited the 3rd Street Sale in San Francisco and met Veronique Evenhouse - the owner of Petite Provence, a Provencal store in Santa Cruz that sells wonderful table linens and all things Provencal.  Veronique told me, that even though she does not have Santons featured in her online Catalog, she does have some at the store.  If you would like to buy some for this year, give her a call at  (831) 462 2120; Email: veronique@petitprovence.com  or visit her website: www.PetiteProvence.com