What do you see at a Provence Winter Market?

The Markets of Provence go on throughout the year .... come rain, hail, snow or Mistral!  Each day, Stallholders make their way very early each morning even in the depths of winter when daylight doesn't appear until after 8am, to towns and villages all over Provence, their vans filled, ready for the day's business.

We hear lots about the Summer Markets in Provence ... but what happens in the Winter - after Christmas?  Yes, for a short time the Christmas Markets get a lot of attention, and then of course the specialty markets such as Truffles. But what about the plain old regular Market that we have all come to love.  Let's take a look at the seasonal changes from Summer to Winter.

Of course the Marche Provencal is much more than just a food market.  They are an outlet for local artisans to bring their crafts.

From head to toe ....

  Brightly colored Espadrils are replaced by stylish boots.  Above the knee, fur lined and sassy ankle boots.

 The French Scarf definitely has it's place foremost in winter fashion

Skiing anyone?

Lots of hats

Brrrrrrr!

clothes for days .......

Twins?

Lots of Scarves ....

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clementines...................

chestnuts .....

Vanilla Beans from Madagascar

Focus on fish - it's seafood season

Pumpkins and leeks

Having a wild time with mushrooms ....

..... and truffles ... hide your wallet!
                                Truffle ommlettes anyone?

Farm fresh eggs - and of course little animals for adoption .... see you at the market!

Tous au Marche - Let's all go to the Market!

 It was getting close to vacation time - only a few weeks away.  Back to Sablet and Provence.  Time to start packing and getting all those, “before we go” jobs done.  Start with the suitcases ….. yes they’re ready to start ….. wait a minute …. What’s this in the zipper compartment on the outside of this one?

    Dated Lundi 21 Juillet 2008 (Monday July 21 2008 ... 2008 ... really?), is a Sud Vaucluse edition the daily newspaper La Provence, carrying a front page headline and large color picture beckoning, Tous au Marché (everyone to the market).  It invites readers to take a tour of 120 markets in the Vaucluse, every day of the week in different towns and villages.   As I read on, this article and just the thought of the Provencal markets makes me feel good – always filled with characters and good natured stall holders who  love talking with and getting to know their customers.  They’re always ready joke with you, to share a recipe or make sure you know the best way to launder that table runner to keep it looking beautiful.  They love to know where you are from, and what really surprised me was, how many had visited the US – amongst the most common reactions – “love san Francisco – very European”  “Las Vegas is amazing ”  “New York – formidable”.

    Each vacation, we try to get to new markets in towns and villages we haven’t visited yet.  It’s a great way to start your sightseeing tour – with a true flavor of the local scene, lunch at a outdoor café or perhaps even better, pick up supplies for a picnic, followed by an afternoon of exploring and sightseeing. I must admit though that we have developed some favorites. They have become “old friends”.

    Usually arriving on a Saturday afternoon, amongst the first items of business for us is Sunday morning at Isle sur la Sorgue market, followed by an outdoor lunch at Lou Nego Chin (old Provencal for “the swimming dog”) – a small restaurant on the banks of the River Sorgue. Are we really such creatures of habit?   It appears so!  The market gets crowded in the summer, so go early.  There is a great little breakfast café on the rue du Docteur Taillet,  as well as outdoors at the Café de France opposite the Cathedral  - not too far from the scene of “the doggie voleur.”  

Oops!  Mustn’t forget – stop by Lou Nego Chin and reserve a riverside table for twelve-thirty.  Now ….. Spices, fresh produce, maybe a freshly cooked chicken for dinner, cheeses, olives and charcuterie (where’s the stall holder who told me that he’d never be able to afford a new truck, if I was only going to purchase one coil of saussison?  – better go back and see if the new truck materialized) …. Mon pauvre mari makes trips back to the car – lucky we discovered a great parking area not too far away that always seems to have free spots.  Time to check out what’s new at the market this year – linens, what’s new in pottery, don’t forget the artisan made soaps, olive wood items, fabric (absolutely the best place for furnishing fabrics) , anything at all!  I’m in my element here –  must have been a stall holder in a previous life!

                                        

     The morning passes quickly, with way too much fun.  It’s time to meet our friends at the restaurant.  One of the most comforting,  yet surprising  things is that the stall holders at the market, owners and staff of restaurants very rarely change, so it’s nice to go back to old friends.  Lunch is going to be fun  – we’re meeting friends who have come from the other side of the world.  Under a large shady umbrella, watching the ducks amble down the river, it’s time to relax with an aperitif and check out the menu.  As As the bells of the Cathedral chime one pm, the market starts to unwind.  Stall holders packing up their narrow tall vans into which disappears everything that made up the stall – tables, umbrellas, merchandise and anything else that was used. The food is great – as usual – the Soupe de Poisson is still great …… and I just can’t resist their Ile Flotant for desert.  Am I really such a creature of habit? 

                                               

      Before we know it – it’s nearly three – most of the day spent with old friends -  The friends we have lunch with, the friends at the restaurant and the Market itself – definitely an old friend.  Let’s walk back to the car, put the top down and head back to Sablet ….. ..
After all, we have more “can’t be missed” old friends to visit during the week ……
     

       Tuesday in Vaison la Romaine ......... early Friday in Sablet and then on to Carpentras     ......…. Just for starters.

Markets of Provence - 10 Helpful Hints

My first visit to a Market in Provence was in 1985, while camping with my family in the beach town of La Ciotat.  It was a hot August day ..... the stall holders were as always in great humor, under their spread out market umbrellas.  Walking around the village that day, tasting olives, marvelling at the large containers of dark green olive oil, my husband bantering with the stall holders of charcuterie whilst sampling and buying.  We left that market with great beach picnic food for lunch and wonderful fresh vegetables for dinner with our barbecue.





Since then, no vacation in Provence has been complete without a visit to at least one market. 
They are so much a part of the fabric of Provence, that whatever else your plans are .....
your local market is well worth a visit.

So....... here are some hints that I hope will help to make your Markets of Provence visit a fun experience.

1. Parking can be a challenge during the Spring and Summer. Arrive early to get a good spot, it also leaves you enough time to enjoy a café au lait and croissant at a outdoor café as the market gets into full swing.

2. Be sure to take a shopping basket with you.  If you are staying at Maison des Pèlerins or La Baume des Pèlerins, take the shopping baskets on wheels – they are the perfect thing for market visits.

3. Camera or Movie Camera is a must – the Markets of Provence have lots to look at and capture on film. 

4. Save some time to take in the sights, sounds and happenings at the markets – people watching can be fun at Provencal markets.

5. If you plan to have lunch at one of the Restaurants in the town, make a reservation before you get started with your shopping.

6. Spit roasted chickens and potatoes are prepared at  wonderful stalls in all markets. Street vendors also sell prepared Paella and Pizza.  These make a great and easy dinner or can even be part of an after market picnic lunch – be sure to stop by the stall and order yours early. The stallholder will save it until you come back for it when you are ready to leave. Markets usually finish around 1pm so be sure to go back for it before then.

  

7.     Markets in Provence sell everything.  Fresh fruit and vegetables, meat, fish,   poultry, cheeses (each vendor  usually has their specialty), Olives, tapenades and other prepared dips, charcuterie, breads and cookies, spices and spice mixes, soaps, art, pottery, plants, hand made soaps, linen items, fabric, music CD’s ….. The list could go on and on. Try to leave yourself enough time to take a first walk through so that you can really zero in on your areas of interest and come back to do some comparison shopping…… “now…. Which stall has the best selection of pottery?  Best prices?”

     

8. If you are buying any type of food …. Ask the stall holder for their recommendations for preparing it or ideas for serving it. They are always ready to share and have great recipes. 

   


    

9.    If you sew or have someone who can sew, the Markets of Provence have the best selection of fabric!  Fabric for clothing as well as furnishing fabric like nowhere else.  One of my favorites is the fabric stall at Carpentras Market on Friday morning that sells 10ft wide furnishing fabric. That width makes furnishing projects super easy.  The selection is also fantastic. Isle sur la Sorgue market also has one or two stalls that have great furnishing fabric – same width. These stalls are heaven for “crafty” people.

 10. When buying fresh fruit and vegetables, find the stall that you best like the look of the produce of, then tell the stall holder when you would like to use it, today, tomorrow, in two days and ask them to pick out the best for you.  The stall holders take a special pride in making sure that your produce will be at perfect pitch when you serve it.

 

I hope you enjoy some of the pictures I’ve taken 

at various markets near our village of Sablet.  

This young market visitor knows that you're never too young to be stylish!

Most of all ……. When visiting the Markets of Provence …….. Prepare to have fun!