Trompe d'Oeil - The Art Of Illusion

I was recently browsing around looking for a large picture that would work for an indoor/outdoor space, and found this fun tapestry that is a little more than six feet wide by four and a half feet tall, which fits the space beautifully.  Now, every time we look at that tapestry, instead of seeing a white wall, we'll be instantly transported to a lovely terrace in Provence overlooking the vineyards.

A view across the vineyards through the stone arches

It reminded me of the very large painting that hung in the dining room at Les Abeilles - a striking and colorful view across a field of Sunflowers....

Sunflowers under a dramatic Provencal sky in the dining room at Restaurant Les Abeilles

It was so pleasant to look from at across the room - bright yellow sunflowers under a dramatic Provencal summer sky. Looking at that sky, you could almost feel a the intense humidity that builds up just before short but intense Provencal thunderstorms.  It hung on the wall opposite the large windows which looked out onto the courtyard, and really gave the feel of an indoor/outdoor space with sunflowers on one side and enormous plane trees shading the courtyard outside.

But ... art illusions are not restricted to indoor/outdoor spaces.  If you are travelling in Provence, keep your eyes open for the large murals in large and small towns and villages, often dressing up an otherwise rather plain space. Trompe l'oeil  - the art of tricking the eye by the use of perspective and lighting, has been used in Europe since the early Renaissance. Here are some more contemporary Provencal expressions.

In the village of Entreaigues ...

... the blunt end of a row of narrow village  houses, shows the occupants on a pretty upstairs balcony while downstairs a child plays near a water fountain sheltered under a stone arch.

A corner in the middle of Entraigues

On a walk through the pretty village of Venasque...

Venasque, Provence - a dog relaxes in the courtyard

... we walked past a narrow opening between stone buildings, and noticed a picturesque gravel courtyard - windows with colorful shutters where the family dog lay relaxing.  

Looking again, we realized that our eyes were playing tricks on us, but it was a very pleasant trick.

In the town of Loriol-sur -Drome ... one corner of an intersection takes our eyes to a neighborhood shopping area, surrounded by olive trees .. an stone arched door leads to ... perhaps another garden .. who knows ...

But in reality .. we are en route to the A7!

A busy intersection in Loriol-sur-Drome, Provence

Got a large blank wall? 

 Give it some decorative windows!

Or perhaps a fountain, like the one that adorns this exterior wall in Buis les Barronies...

Nowhere to plant a large olive tree? No problems, again in Buis les Barronies 

Buis les Barronies is in the heart of Olive growing country

Our "window view" towards Seguret in the kitchen at Maison des Pelerins

... And when we couldn't have a window above the stove top in the kitchen at Maison des Pelerins ...

... a very talented ceramic artist gave us one that looks at Seguret ... just like a real window in that wall would!

Le Jardin Extraordinaire

.....that's the name of a favorite song, sung by Charles Trenet that played on the Home Page of SabletHome.com for some time.

It will come as no surprise then, that our courtyard garden at Maison des Pelerins is a place that we spend a lot of very happy hours.  From breakfast on a cool crisp morning by the fountain to lunch under the cool shade of the large umbrella on a hot summer's day -  let's not forget an early evening aperitif as the sun sets and then dinner in the light of the old church steeple until the last bells chime at 10pm. 

 

I just love "pottering" around the garden, trimming here and there, cutting the dead flowers, tying back the wisteria vines, training the bright orange Bower Vine on the wall around the fountain and making sure the herbs are "happy".

Here is a little pictorial "Sablet - Provence garden tour" that I hope you will enjoy.


                                
                                 

The back wall of our courtyard is also the back wall of the old Church of St. Nazaire .........  Wisteria and Roses climb - on the wall and  around the windows. On warm days, when a window is open, we can sometimes hear the sweet sound of the children singing at their Catechism class.

From late Spring to late Summer, Hollyhocks pop up in different spaces all around the garden ..... wherever the wind has blown the seeds .... they happily stand up, their faces smiling to welcome visitors .....              

What is this creature???? No it is not the escaped Monster from the Ouveze River!! During Winter 2009/2010 we had a  heavy snowfall and were very sad to lose the old, old Rosemary bush that had grown near the front door of Maison des Pelerins for a long time.  Our thoughtful gardener saved the root and the large ball at the base of the trunk, which now decorates the base of the Olive tree!

 

Monsuieur Lyon (the old cast iron fontain)...... roses climbing agianst the old stone wall


                                 
                             

                                       Anyone for Dinner?


                                
                            
Potted Geraniums - a must in any French Garden ....... Spring blooming Lilac ..... Wisteria vines....Oleander ....... Lavender ...... Herbs - Bay Laurel - Sage - Thyme - Mint - Rosemary - Tarragon - Basil (of course!) - Chives - Parsley (in season) ...... 
a welcoming Provencal Cypress Tree       ..............

C'est,  Mon Jardin ....... Extraordinaire ......

Provencal Cuisine - "la Cuisine du Soleil"

The sun is shining ... birds and cigales sing .... this means breakfast, lunch and dinner in the courtyard at Maison des Pelerins and thoughts of cooking in Provence.

Lunch under the parasol in the courtyard at Maison des Pelerins - Tarte Provencale followed by a green salad,fresh Chevre and Cavaillon Melon ...

La Cuisine du Soleil - with its intensely sunny and natural  flavors of Provence - rosemary, thyme and other herbs growing wild in the fields, that sheep graze on; Fish straight from the Mediterranean - caught daily; fresh tomatoes and garlic - green and mild in the Spring, but stronger when it is dried, the way we see it throughout the year; intensely sweet melons, strawberries and figs ...  the bright colors reminding you of their freshness and their rich flavors which have drawn food lovers to this part of France for a very long time.

Succulent figs and fresh Chevre - a perfect pair

Throughout France, food and cooking is an art, both in practice and in form - delicious - and beautiful to look at.  In Provence, you see this all around you - in markets, shops and restaurants ...
if you are traveling to Provence, get ready for a treat.

The Essentials - a good Olive Oil and Herbes de Provence

Here are some of my favorite Provencal dishes you may see on menus:

Bouillabaisse: Who has not heard of Bouillabaisse? (Otherwise known as "woolly bears" to our then four year old son). A hearty saffron based Seafood Stew, served as a main course – usually a special meal. The origin of this dish comes from the very fisherman who went out into the Mediterranean every night, coming back - boats laden with all varieties of fish. Amongst these were smaller boney fish such as racasse (skorpion fish), that were caught up in the nets. These fish, while not particularly pleasant to eat due to their bones,  made the perfect base for a strong and flavorful soup, which was the fisherman's meal. The traditional Marseillaise way for serving Bouillabaisse, is to serve the broth first, with rouille - a spicy, garlicky mayonaise which gets its name from the rusty color of the saffron used in its preparation - croutons, and a finely grated sharp cheese. The fish and any vegetables are then served as a second course.

Marseille is the home of this dish where the “Vieux Port” is lined with many restaurants featuring this specialty. Along the Mediterranean coast, you find Bouillabaisse on the menu in many smaller towns and villages as well. Local cooks will tell you that a good Bouillabaisse must have three important ingredients:  the bony rock fish found in the Mediterranean; a fine saffron; and rich Provencal olive oil (and herbes de Provence).

Bouillabaisse as it is traditionally served at the Vieux Port in Marseille

Soupe de Poissons: Earthy Mediterranean fish soup, served with aioli (garlic mayonnaise), garlic for rubbing on croutons, croutons and finely grated sharp cheese.

Rouille - a mayonnaise made with saffron, garlic and spices  is  a traditional accompaniment to Bouillabaisse

Daube Provencale: Traditional Provencal stew, made with either beef, veal or lamb. Perfumed with Herbs de Provence and orange zest, and cooked with a good amount of red wine. Since the Provencaux have always been hard working people who went out into the fields or vineyards each day, dishes such as the Daube, which requires slow cooking, became common. The basic recipe could be prepared in advance (in the morning), and left to cook (mijoter), while the family went out to work in the fields or vineyards. When they returned at lunchtime, the meal was ready.

Pistou is a close relative of its Italian cousin Pesto

Soupe au Pistou - a hearty vegetable soup richly flavored with Pistou

Soupe au Pistou: The soup of Provence. Perfumed with Basil and rich in flavor.

Ratatouille - a bright combination of summer vegetables - shown here is a sauteed version of the dish

Here - Ratatouille in which the vegetables are mixed and baked.  Vegetable Tians (a name given to various combinations of vegetables prepared and baked in a ceramic dish known locally as a tian), are common in Provencal cuisine.  Although the cooking vessel is not the traditional shape of a tian, this dish would be referred to as a "tian". The shape of the tian is a straight sided ceramic dish,  with a narrow base spreading out to a wide rim that has a pouring lip. You will see these at many markets and in stores.

Ratatouille: A vegetable mixture (usually tomatoes, eggplant aka. aubergines, bell peppers, onions, garlic and herbes de Provence, but sometimes including zucchini aka courgette). Served hot usually as an accompaniment to meat, or cold as a starter.

One of my favorites for using leftover Ratatouille is to spread it thinly on a Galette Sarasin (buckwheat crepe) with a light sprinkling of cheese. Served with a green salad, it makes a delicious and easy light meal. I was first introduced to these at the L'Annexe Cafe on the Place de Montfort in Vaison la Romaine, where is it named the Galette Sarasin - Provencal.  They also serve many other varieties of "galettes" with other savory fillings.

Tapenade: Olive spread served on toast or with raw vegetables with “aperitif”.  It is readily available at  Provencal markets, and in any supermarket.

Anchoiade: Also for “aperitif” anchovy paste served in a similar manner to Tappenade.

Pissaladiere - "grown up's Pizza"

Pissaladiere:  Ina Garten described this dish on one of her "Barefoot Contessa" episodes as "a grown up's pizza".  It does indeed have a pizza base, and I have eaten it on a thin cracker crust style base, as well as a thicker base.  The topping is what makes it uniquely Provencal.  A layer of rich, golden, caramelized onions (and garlic), anchovies (my preference is for those preserved in olive oil), dotted with dark olives and sprinkled with a strong, sharp cheese (such as Parmesan) and herbes de Provence. mmm.......

These are only a few of the treats you will encounter in Provence during your adventures with a knife, fork and spoon.         Bon Courage .... Bon Chance .... most of all .... Bon Apetit!

Supermarket Shopping in Provence (and France)

We hear much about the Markets of Provence and the small specialty stores that sell the very best of produce, cheese, charcuterie and so on. 

These shops are all around you and they are very much a part of the French life. For instance, it's not uncommon to hear our friends talk about making a special trip to Vaison-la-Romaine, to see Josiane Deal at Lou Canestou for their cheese course at a special dinner - and Lou Canestou is an extremely good choice as they have excellent cheese!

But .... many of our guests vacationing in Provence at Maison des Pelerins and la Baume des Pelerins, have to balance food shopping and cooking the perfect Provencal Dinner, with getting out and about to visit all the sites and scenery that they have come to see, maybe with their young children, and don't have the time to devote to finding and visiting the specialty stores. In Sablet we are very fortunate to have a wonderful little Mini Market, but not all villages have that luxury.

Intermarche Supermarket on the Route de Nyons - Vaison la Romaine

To everyone who falls into this category - I have good news for you!  Provence has excellent Supermarkets!  The quality is excellent - the stores are generally very large and well laid out, carrying a very wide range of foods and other household items. 

Carrefour Market - Orange - just off Exit 22 from the A7 AuroRoute

The larger Supermarket chains are: Intermarche, Carrefour, LeClerc, SuperU and Auchan (this is a humungous store that carries everything from groceries to automotive supplies, clothing, household items and appliances). I'm sure I have missed some, but you will commonly see these stores.  

Super U Supermarket in Vaison la Romaine - Avenue des Choralies  84110 Vaison-la-Romaine

If you are planning a "self-catering" vacation at a rental home in Provence or anywhere in France, it's very easy to find a Supermarket near your destination to stock up on supplies, without having to hurriedly brush up on your French for fear of starving!

The entry to Auchan Market ("Hypermarche") near Avignon (Centre Commercial - le Pontet).. now this is a Supermarket!

It is easy to recognize the layout of most Supermarkets in Provence since they follow a pattern that will be similar to the US, the UK, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and many other countries.  

Do you think there's an adequate choice of cheeses?   ..... browse at your leisure ... and then pick your fromage

There are sections for fruit and vegetables, deli items, fresh meats and poultry, bakery, dairy etc., In Provence (and throughout France) there are however a few practical differences that it will help to know about before you get there.

Let's take it from the beginning ..... 

1.  Grocery Bags (Sacs) ....

Isn't this what a Provencal shopping bag should look like?

 ....  Always take your own bags - Supermarkets in Provence will charge you per bag if you do not have any, and do not want to carry your items out to the car loose in your cart (Chariot).  

2.  Grocery Carts (Chariots) ....

Carts are stored at various points around the parking lot, where they can be picked up and dropped off easily

.... Most Supermarkets make their carts available outside the store - some have carts stored in various parts of the parking lot as well as by the doors.

3.    Keep a 1 Euro Coin handy!  ......

Slide a 1Euro coin into the slot - it releases the lock on the cart .. and you are free to walk around the store!

.... In order to get a cart, you will have to slide a one euro piece into the mechanism that keeps it locked in place to all the other carts.  

When you have unpacked your cart at the end of your shopping trip, simply take the cart back and slide the catch back in and your Euro will pop back out.  

                                                 Don't forget it!

4.  Once in the store, when purchasing fruit and vegetables - place them in your plastic bag, seal the bag and weigh them on the nearest electronic scale. 

Produce must be bagged, weighed and priced prior to checkout. (Picture from Americans in France website)

You will see pictures of all the fruit and vegetables available, right on the scales.  Find your choice and press the appropriate button.  An adhesive price tag will be printed out and ejected from the scales.  Be sure to stick the tag on the plastic bag of produce. If you miss this step, the checker will send you back to do it! (Yes.... it was embarrassing!) 

5.  Checking Out ...

When you get to the checkout, as usual, you will have to unload your cart, but you will also have to do your own bagging. There will be no one bagging, and the checker does not bag your purchases - here is where you need the bags you brought.

Just one more hint:  If you are renting a vacation home, I strongly recommend going to your destination and unloading your luggage, before going to the supermarket (perhaps after a cup of coffee or even a glass of wine).  That way, you will not be leaving your luggage in an unattended car whilst shopping, AND you will have an opportunity to do a quick stock take on items that may already be provided with your rental as this varies. 

I hope you won't have to put the top down on your car to fit all your purchases in!

Happy Shopping and Bon Courage!   

Practical Items:

Large supermarkets close to Sablet are: Intermarche on the Route de Nyons in Vaison la Romaine, Super U on the Avenue des Choralies, Vaison-la-Romaine and Carrefour in South Orange right off Autoroute 22 from the A7.

Most large supermarkets are open from 8am to 7.30pm continuously 

(no closure for lunch).

Here are a few words that may be helpful when you are shopping:

la banque                         - bank

le boucherie                     - butchers

la boulangerie                  - bakers

le bureau de tabac            - cigarettes, also sells stamps,

                                           sometimes newspapers and often is part

                                           of the local bar

le bureau de poste           - post office

le centre commercial       - shopping centre

la charcuterie                  - traditionally the pork butcher, but is more
                                          like a delicatessen, selling
                                          cold meats, quiche, salads, pates                                      

le coiffeur / la coiffeuse   - hairdressers

l’épicerie                          - grocery store

le marché                          - market

la patisserie                       - cakes/pastries (also sold at the bakers)

la pharmacie                      - drug store - chemist

la presse                             - newspapers/magazines

le supermarché                   - supermarket

le chariot                            - cart - trolley

les bonbons                         - candy - sweets

le beurre                             - butter

le fromage                          - cheese

du lait                                 - milk

le sucre                               - sugar

un œuf                                 - egg

le pain                                  - bread

le poulet                               - chicken                           

le poulet fermier                  - free range chicken

la viande                               - meat

une tranche                           - a slice

le vin                                     - wine

le café                                   - coffee

le thé                                     - tea

jus d’orange                          - orange juice

jus de pomme                        - apple juice

les allumettes                         - matches

un sac                                    - bag

un timbre                               - a stamp

entrée                                    - entrance

sortie                                     - exit

sortie de secours                    - emergency exit

tirez                                       - pull (on shop doors)

poussez                                  - push (on shop doors)

Dessert Heaven in Provence - Patisserie, Chocolate and Ice Cream - a Feast for Your Tastebuds and Your Eyes!

Ever heard this question...

"What's so special about French Patisseries?" 

Take a look at...

 La Patisserie Peyrerol in Vaison la Romaine, where every single item is a work of art

..... and you have the answer!

Let's browse through this desert lover's heaven..... can't hurt your New Year's resolution too much to look ... can it?

....And you ask, "how many miles does this young lady have to walk or run each day, to work here and yet look like she does?!"

but... its good to know that ...
There's chocolate in your future..... Gemini, Taurus or Capricorn?  Does it matter when your Zodiac Sign is so beautifully represented in Chocolate marbled with gold leaf ...

Here's to a sweet future...

... No need to have presents under these Christmas trees ... and think how easy the take down is!

Always elegant - but NO, they're not magnificent pottery sculptures ... they are magnificent  CHOCOLATE sculptures - the Boule de Noel -  when you crack them open at the end of the meal - 

 more chocolate goddies spill out!

Desert time! Chocolat Framboises - chocolate mousse, raspberry "marmelade" and praline ... that's just the the desert on the left .... it's OK ...  just remember ....there's lots of good walking and bike riding in Provence too!

Something a little lighter? Try a Verrine ... 

perhaps a Baba au Rhum or a Pina Colada in a verrine ....

Maybe something with a split personality!  

Raspberry Millefeuilles or Macarons filled with Creme a la Rose and Raspberries ...

No Patisserie is complete without Pain d'Epice - Spice bread! 

A Cafe au lait and a slice of Pain d'Epice .... miam....miam .....

Thinking of warmer places and days ...Sunny Gateaux with the scent of the Carribean ..... 

Pina Colada Mousse on a biscuit base combined with a "caramel exotique" and chrunchy praline! Perfect poolside snacking!

Bonbons de Chocolat Maison ... Of course!

Had to try these .... and  their Roqufort and Walnut Macarons .... wonder what the seasonal flavor is in early Spring? 

You can find all these treats (and more!) just ten minutes drive from our 
Provence Vacation Rentals -

Maison des Pelerins and la Baume des Pelerins in Sablet at: 

La Patisserie Peyrerol , 5 cours Henri Fabre, Vaison-la-Romaine, France. 
Phone: 04 90 36 04 91

Click here to see Patisserie Peyrerol on a map