Sablet Ce Soir - A Football Party

Summer in Provence ....
Tonight Friday June 13, 2014 - The World Cup may have been all the way over there in Brazil - but that did not stop the football party in Sablet - Chez Bruno!

As the Party begins .... chairs set up on the sidewalk to watch the match on a big screen set up in from of the Cafe des Sports

The man of the hour - Bruno, who has organized this evening and is the proprietor of the Cafe des Sports - is always ready for fun

As the Match starts and the football gets going - patrons at the Cafe enjoy watching football, having an aperitif and chatting with their friends.  Village activities like this one are so enjoyable!

Applause! Applause! Our team has scored!

What an enjoyable evening!  Love these events that take place all Summer long - the neighbors in Sablet get together.  Thanks Bruno for organizing the event and thanks so much Margret Storck for the beautiful photographs.  

Sunday June 22, 2014...And the FIFA World Cup continues...

In Sablet, we have many Belgian visitors and a strong Belgian fan base

They're at Bruno's watching the game ...

It's all cheers at the Cafe de Sports as Belgium wins the match.  Well Done Belgium ... now on to the second round!  Thanks Margret Storck for keeping us in touch with the great photos.

You can see Margret's great work at:

margret.storck@gmx.de

http://www.margretstorck.com

http://www.margretstorck-photography.com

June 30th - France vs Nigeria - France 2 Nigeria 0 

...... and this is what Bruno's looked like!

Bravo France & Merci Margret Stork! 

Bonne Continuation!

Trompe d'Oeil - The Art Of Illusion

I was recently browsing around looking for a large picture that would work for an indoor/outdoor space, and found this fun tapestry that is a little more than six feet wide by four and a half feet tall, which fits the space beautifully.  Now, every time we look at that tapestry, instead of seeing a white wall, we'll be instantly transported to a lovely terrace in Provence overlooking the vineyards.

A view across the vineyards through the stone arches

It reminded me of the very large painting that hung in the dining room at Les Abeilles - a striking and colorful view across a field of Sunflowers....

Sunflowers under a dramatic Provencal sky in the dining room at Restaurant Les Abeilles

It was so pleasant to look from at across the room - bright yellow sunflowers under a dramatic Provencal summer sky. Looking at that sky, you could almost feel a the intense humidity that builds up just before short but intense Provencal thunderstorms.  It hung on the wall opposite the large windows which looked out onto the courtyard, and really gave the feel of an indoor/outdoor space with sunflowers on one side and enormous plane trees shading the courtyard outside.

But ... art illusions are not restricted to indoor/outdoor spaces.  If you are travelling in Provence, keep your eyes open for the large murals in large and small towns and villages, often dressing up an otherwise rather plain space. Trompe l'oeil  - the art of tricking the eye by the use of perspective and lighting, has been used in Europe since the early Renaissance. Here are some more contemporary Provencal expressions.

In the village of Entreaigues ...

... the blunt end of a row of narrow village  houses, shows the occupants on a pretty upstairs balcony while downstairs a child plays near a water fountain sheltered under a stone arch.

A corner in the middle of Entraigues

On a walk through the pretty village of Venasque...

Venasque, Provence - a dog relaxes in the courtyard

... we walked past a narrow opening between stone buildings, and noticed a picturesque gravel courtyard - windows with colorful shutters where the family dog lay relaxing.  

Looking again, we realized that our eyes were playing tricks on us, but it was a very pleasant trick.

In the town of Loriol-sur -Drome ... one corner of an intersection takes our eyes to a neighborhood shopping area, surrounded by olive trees .. an stone arched door leads to ... perhaps another garden .. who knows ...

But in reality .. we are en route to the A7!

A busy intersection in Loriol-sur-Drome, Provence

Got a large blank wall? 

 Give it some decorative windows!

Or perhaps a fountain, like the one that adorns this exterior wall in Buis les Barronies...

Nowhere to plant a large olive tree? No problems, again in Buis les Barronies 

Buis les Barronies is in the heart of Olive growing country

Our "window view" towards Seguret in the kitchen at Maison des Pelerins

... And when we couldn't have a window above the stove top in the kitchen at Maison des Pelerins ...

... a very talented ceramic artist gave us one that looks at Seguret ... just like a real window in that wall would!

A Symphony in Sablet

A Symphony in Sablet | Provence Vacation Rentals | Vacation Rental Homes | Sablet Home

On a beautiful October evening in Sablet ... we're all invited to a pre-dinner Symphony!

A view of the Dentelles de Montmirail from Maison des Pelerins on a beautiful October evening

... it all starts with an "affiche" posted in the window of the Casino Epicerie in the village square. We noticed it as soon as we arrived back in Sablet from our week on the  Canal Lateral de la Garonne in the Acquitaine.  The affiche explained the beautiful music we heard drifting in the direction of Maison des Pelerins from our next door neighbor - the 12th Century Church of St. Nazaire.  Since I love going to the Symphony, this was going to be such a treat - except this time I only had to walk next door! The group of amateur musicians had been invited to perform in Sablet by the Compagnons des Barrys - the very active historical and community organization, and Margret Storck, a professional photographer who lives in Sablet  and is  friends with many members of the symphony - this kind of activity is definitely one of the delights of spending time in a small village in Provence.

The interior of the Church of St Nazaire, Sablet

The Church starts to fill up as the Recital will start soon

The small church that normally holds around eighty people was beginning to fill up well before the appointed starting time of 6pm.

The Orchestra warms before the Concert

By starting time all the seats were filled - lots of neighbors and friends, along with some visitors to the village ... and people kept arriving ... even an hour after the concert had started people kept arriving packing in to the standing room only aisles and entry.

Presentation of the musicians

As the musicians stood to receive the audience's applause of welcome, the Presenter announced that "Tonight we will be taking a musical promenade across Europe", which we certainly did.  From the beginning with Handel's lively and upbeat Sinfonia "Arrival of the Queen of Sheba" from the Opera Solomon all the way to the end which was a presentation of "drei reumanische Volkstanze" (Rumanian Filkdance), by Bartok, we were treated to a wonderful variety that included Vivaldi, Mozart, Bach and Tschaikowsky.

Acapella

The audience shows their appreciation

There was no doubt that the audience appreciated the performance, but the most incredible thing that we learned was that these were all amateur musicians who do this as a hobby!   At the end of the performance, we were all invited to join the musicians and organizers for an aperitif ... and more music.

The Celebration and aperitif

It was a spectacular beginning to the evening, followed by a walk down to  Les Abeilles for a delicious and very enjoyable dinner with friends.

C'est la vie Provencale ....

The Reviews are in and it's definitely a hit!

Many thanks to L'Orchestre de Chambre de Hambourg/Eimsbuettel for their magnificent performance and to the Compagnons des Barrys in Sablet and Margret Storck for the presentation of muscians. Thank you also to Margret Storck for many of the lovely pictures of the performance.

If you are traveling in Provence, be sure to keep you eyes open for the "affiches" that are posted in shop windows - it is the best way to find activities that are "off the beaten path"  in Provence.

Let The Good Times Roll ... Provence ... Petanque & Pastis

Provence ... Petanque and Pastis ...   does any other combination of words, fit together more naturally?

This delightful print by artist Guy Buffet that hangs in our breakfast room, tells the story of a favorite Provencal pastime

During the Spring, Summer and Fall look at any graveled parking lot, sandy spot in a park, beach or open space and the chances are that you will see one or more groups of men in peaked (or baseball) hats, gathered around, looking down at the ground, often with measuring tapes or arms outstretched making very strong gesticulations. As the measurements are discussed and disputed the gesticulations become greater and the voices a bit louder, until at last capitulation by the looser and everyone turns to their glass of Pastis for a refreshing sip.  What is this all about?  Petanque of course ... and Pastis!

This old postcard set in Marseille displays just how intense with anticipation the atmosphere around a game of Petanque can become.  

Uniquely Provencal, both Petanque and Pastis originated in Marseilles area.  Petanque is definitely a local adaptation of what was the game known as Boules (even though you often hear the two names used for what is really Petanque).  Although forms of the game can be traced back to Greek and Roman times in Provence, and those early forms of the game became so popular, that ordinary people were banned from playing it by the Kings of France, until the 16th Century (perhaps they had concerns about their subjects perfecting their rock throwing skills!). 

The source of this picture is www.Painters-online.uk.co and echoes a very familiar Provencal village scene

A more modern form of Petanque developed and in the 19th Century game of Boules had the same rules, but required the players to run (or jump) three large steps before tossing the heavy ball onto a court about 15 - 20 meters long.  That was until a group of creative players from one of my favorite seaside towns of La Ciotat decided to change the rules to accommodate one of their friends who was a popular player, Jules Lenoir was unable to play due to chronic rheumatism.  Instead of the running steps, the changed the rules to require that players stand with their feet together in a circle drawn in at the end of the court - hence the name "Petanque" which is derived from an expression in the old Provencal language that I have seen as both Pes tancats - meaning feet together and Ped tanca meaning anchored feet.

Image courtesy of Brooklyn Boule Blogspot - Le Vrai Pastis and Boules a Provencal match made in heaven!

Pastis - was first made in Marseille by Paul Ricard, who created it's unique taste for his drink (le Vrai Pastis de Marseille) using star anise and a number of other herbs and aromatics found in Provence. At the time, Absinthe had been declared illegal and many people were trying to find a replacement for the popular drink. Pastis soon became a favorite in Southern France where it was drunk as a "long drink" - if you order Pastis, it will come with ice and a pitcher of water - and is usually mixed on a five parts of water to one part of Pastis.  In 1962, Paul Ricard started a four day Petanque Tournament to be played in Marseille - which carries on today and is known as "Le Mondial", thus cementing the relationship between "Le Vrai Pastis" and the most popular sporting pastime in Provence.

Thank goodness for measuring tapes and sticks - I'm sure they save many friendships!

Image courtesy of www.Painters-online.uk.co - Players and onlookers enjoy the game and no doubt  a cool Pastis!

This scene can be seen in any town or village in Provence and has spread to many other parts of France. Although Marseille holds le Mondial in early July each year, any towns and villages hold Petanque tournaments. 

2012's "Affiche" from Sablet's Fete Votive - apart from being a really fun time - a fie day boules competition!

Our village of Sablet holds a five day tournament - on each day of the Fete Votive early in August.  Not so coincidentally, both Petanque and Pastis originated in Marseille or nearby. 

Elvis Still Rocks in Provence!

... And I do believe that "rocks" are what's it's all about here.  Doing the "accidental tourist" thing, we found ourselves in the Baronnies - outside the Vaucluse (the "Departement" where our village of Sablet is located) - in the Drome. The trip up into the rocky range and valleys of the Baronnies started as a trip to the Bricomarche (Hardware Store) in Vaison la Romaine to pick up a few supplies.  What had slipped our attention was that it was "Toussaint" Nov 1 - All Saint's Day - a public holiday - so the Bricomarche wasn't open!

Elvis still rocks in Provence!

We could have gone back "a la Maison", but on the way to the Brico I had commented that there was still some snow (after an October snowfall) on a hill ... way over there ... so ... we decided to go find this hill!

From Vaison la Romaine we took the Route de Nyons, past the town of Nyons along  the two lane D94 - a road that runs along the valley floor beside the Eygues River, up into the rocky terrain of the Baronnies where olives grow so well and and rock climbers find no end of new adventures.

A drive on the D94 beside the River Euyges in the rocky Baronnies

The ship shaped rock with a cross at its bow - St May looks out across the valley of the River Euyges 

About 20 km out of Nyons,  we noticed an interesting rock shaped protruding out at right angles to the rest of the hills, looking somewhat like a narrow ship with a saddle in the middle, but a definite bow that protruded out with a large cross on its point. The point reached almost to the river. As we got closer, we noticed that the "ship" had some houses built on it - too good a chance to visit an interesting place.

Along the road, the Cafe Rocher - turn left here, cross the bridge and climb
 the hill to get to St May

Once you turn left at the Cafe Rocher, this is the bridge you cross to take the road up the hill to St May.  Note the rock stratification that you see on the other side of the river under the bridge.  The rock strata throughout this Eygues River Gorge are dramatically folded and contorted varying considerably along the route  in color and pattern.

The name of this village we soon learned is St. May and access to it is from a bridge across the Eygues River (at the Cafe Rocher on the main road) and up a very curly road.  On the way up we noted that it was a little past lunchtime and we should probably stop at the Cafe Rocher (Rock Cafe!?) for lunch and decided to do it on the way back.

The rustic church occupies a central place in the perched village of St May

One of a few streets in St May with the backdrop of a towering rock so typical of this area 

St May was indeed a very interesting little village of a few hundred inhabitants who lived in houses built into the side of the ship shaped hill.  Apart from a couple of streets, and a church in the "square" entry to all other houses were from a street or streets of steps - the main one climbing up to the "bow" where we saw the cross.

Many of the houses in this village are accessed from "streets of steps"
that lead to the "bow" of this ship shaped hill

Climbing... and more steps through the arch ...

Still climbing .. but look down the steps that branch off to the  left...
 and there's the door to a house

.... and another down its own branch of steps

More climbing until ....

you are at the gates ...

That street of steps was quiet a climb, and when we did reach the "bow" we found that the cross is a marker for village cemetery which given the day, was filled with large bouquets of Chrysanthemums.

Inside the gates and it's Nov 1st - All Saint's Day 

While we were there, many family members came by to leave more flowers at the graves of their loved ones. As I recall I did comment quietly, (while stopping to catch my breath on one of the steps),  that it was so nice the villagers wanted their loved ones to go to heaven - but I never would have thought of carrying them up there!

Looking down on the rooftops of St May from the Cross

Having had as much aerobic exercise as we could handle for a day, we carefully trekked back to where the car was parked and made our way back down the hill, across the river.  Lunchtime!

Back at the Cafe Rocher - lunchtime!

Annex to the Cafe - across the road provides seating for guests during the
 busy summer season

Cafe Rocher looks very typical of many little Provencal cafes while out driving, and the Hostess was very welcoming when we entered.  She told us that they didn't have a full menu that day (it was quite far out of the "season"), but they would be glad to make us a Sandwich - ham and cheese - sounded great - especially with a cool glass of local Rose to go with it.

Elvis alert!

When we stepped into the dining room, I noticed a large picture of Elvis on the wall facing us and thought, "how nice - they're Elvis fans", then we noticed another larger dining area with more Elvis memorabilia ... a very large statue of Elvis, more pictures, etc etc.

It wasn't until we met the owner however, who brought us our drinks and sandwiches, that we realized just how much influence Elvis had on this little Cafe - first, we noticed he was wearing an "Elvis" T-shirt - then looked up and saw his Elvis hair! He seemed to be very pleased that we noticed how much like Elvis he looked, and after a short, pleasant conversation, left us to enjoy our sandwiches and wine ... all to the sound of Elvis's "You Aint Nothing But A Hound Dog".

That was a very pleasant although totally unexpected "find" way out in the hills of Provence - the little village was such a treasure - almost like it had been untouched by time.  The Cafe was fun - the Host and Hostess very welcoming and friendly and they served us a simple but very delicious lunch.

I guess there's more than one meaning to the name "Cafe Rocher"! If you find yourself out on the D94 near the area, I would definitely recommend a stop at the the Cafe that rocks!