Our Vacation Rental Homes in Sablet, Provence

Sablet Village, Vaucluse, Provence, France
Maison des Pelerins and La Baume des Pelerins, or "les Pelerins" as we affectionately refer to our dream come true, of owning our own homes in Provence, are located in the heart of the Vaucluse. We thoroughly enjoy hearing from our guests to "les Pelerins" that they feel they are spending time in their own home in Provence. To be a part of village life, Sablet is the perfect place. "Les Pelerins" dates back to the time when the Popes administered the Catholic Church from Avignon, with a Papal Vice-Legat having a residence right here in Sablet. Our neighbor's home was the Vice-Legat's residence. Ours was one of the buildings that housed visitors and pilgrims and was connected to it, as we can see from the internal portals, and the front door of Maison des Pelerins. Hence the name - Pelerins is French for pilgrims. I hope this Blog will help you get to know Provence and live your Provencal Dream.
Showing posts with label Nimes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nimes. Show all posts

Friday, August 24, 2012

Rolling Down The River ....

... A leisurely ride on the Petit Rhone ...

... as August rolls on ... the hottest time of the year in Provence, referred to as "la canicule" has everyone running for shade and cool places, and it's the time when your mind turns to water ... lots of it!  Whether it's the pool, the beach, a river is immaterial. We decided it was time to visit the Camargue that we had heard so much about.  Early one morning, we pointed la petite coccinelle (as our little new Beetle convertible is known as in our village), in the direction of the Camargue.
Blue on blue - beach umbrellas and the blue Mediterranean
The drive from Sablet to the Camargue takes you through some very well known spots such as Nimes and Arles, which is the last big town before you enter the Parc Naturel Regional de Camargue - in the Rhone River Delta.
Wildlife on the beaches and grassy fields of the Camargue
 This area with its large grassy fields is home to "taureau" ranches and riding stables -  for the well known white horses of the Camargue.  We passed lots of open air stands selling local pottery and other local artifacts, but there was one pottery stand that caught my eye and we made a note of it so we could stop by on the way back.
Provence - Camargue - Saintes Maries de la Mer - a pretty little seaside town
After an hour or so, we arrived at Saintes Maries de la Mer, although busy and crowded at this time of the year, a very pretty little town with a usual population of about 2,000 people which no doubt swells by several thousand at this time of year. This little town is on a little spit of land surrounded by "etangs" (bays), at the very entry to the Rhone Delta
Saintes Maries de la Mer - Place des Gitans
We were lucky to find a parking spot near the Place des Gitans where we stopped for a cool drink and to take a look at their statues of famous Camarguaise bulls - black in color with their distinctive up swept horns .  The bulls not only regularly feature on restaurant menus in this area - they are also the stars of the "Courses Camarguaises" which is the Provencal version of bullfights.

Trainees of the school for Raseteur in Arles, Bouche du Rhone, France
 Unlike their Spanish counterparts, happily the Provencal bulls are not hurt as a part of the "bull game", instead the object of the Courses Camarguaises is for the Toreador to remove a small bow from the bull's head.

By now the temperature was climbing, (although it was still much cooler than the temperature we had left), and it was time for a short drive of a few kilometers down the D38 from Saintes Maries de la Mer, to the docking point for our paddle boat - the Tiki lll.
Paddle boat rounds the corner on its way back to Saintes Marie de la Mer
There was something instantly refreshing about the sight of the cool, pale blue water where fishermen stood by the rocks, their lines cast out.  After a few minutes, waiting at the dock where a cool onshore breeze offered relief from the hot August day, the paddle boat Tiki lll rounded the corner, making its way back loaded with sightseers.
The paddleboat - Tiki lll
Not too long afterwards, we were making our way across the gangplank and onto the paddle boat.  For the next couple of hours, we cruised up and then back down the Petit Rhone.
Gardien watches as the cattle and horses graze
Camargue wildlife on the Petit Rhone
Homes on the banks of the Petit Rhone
Past the the grassy marshlands full of birds feeding, horses coming down to the water to quench their thirst on a hot day, the houses and private docks  of the people who had come down to this area to help to preserve the Parc Regional Naturel de Camargue many years ago, on to the area where we paused to watched the elegant Gardien on his white horse, bring his charges down to the riverbank to graze on the indigenous and plentiful grass - salicorne, and quench their thirst at the river.  From there, we quietly made our way back to the dock that we started from, enjoying the cool breeze coming off the water.
Camargue Flamingos always elegant
It was now well past lunchtime and notwithstanding our best intentions of stopping back in Saintes Maries de la Mer, it was by now very very busy and we opted for one of the open air restaurants  a little further out in along one of the Camargue roads that prominently advertised its "Taureau".
Colorful pottery of the Camargue
One more stop, at the Pottery Stand that I had seen earlier for some brightly colored coffee mugs for Maison des Pelerins and two pretty flower pots, and then back to Sablet. 

Monday, June 11, 2012

Provence As A Part Of The Roman Empire

Beyond the fields of sunflowers, vineyards, lavender fields and olive groves, it is impossible to drive through the Provencal countryside without noticing the remnants of the Roman colonization of the area which began in 120 BC and continued for 600 years, until the second half of the 5th Century AD when they were displaced by the Visigoths.

The Pont Julien near Bonnieux, was a part of the old Via Domitienne
Evidence of Roman presence can be seen throughout the area, even in the smallest towns and villages.  You will find yourself crossing an old Roman bridge at Vaison la Romaine, or Bedarrides or Pont Julien near Bonnieux where the bridge provided the river crossing for the ancient Via Domitienne.  The Romans  built roads to connect major cities in the Empire, some of which are still in use.  Via Aureilienne was the major artery that connected Rome and Arles. It's route passed Aix en Provence and Salon de Provence and today the RN 7 between Aix en Provence and Nice, follows the much of the same route, whilst in an area just east of Tourtour in the Var, a long section of this 1,700 year old road is still in use.

Map of Gallia Narbonensis showing Roman Towns and old Roman roads - image source - www.explorethemed.com
Rome established a foothold in the area when the inhabitants of Massilia (today Marseille), a Greek city at that time, asked for Rome's help in battling the Celtic tribes of the interior.  The newly established Roman Empire (125 BC), anxious to connect Italy to their newly won territories in Spain (a result of the wars with Carthage), was only too pleased to "help", and by 120 BC, the Roman Empire had spread across the entire southern coast of what they then called "Transalpine Gaul" (France).  Provence, as a sub region of Transalpine Gaul, first became known as Provincia Nostra.  As the Empire spread throughout the Mediterranean, the name Provincia became confusing as there were many Provincae Nostrae, so it was renamed Gallia Transalpina for a period of time, before the Emperor Augustus finally named it "Gallia Narbonesis," with its capital Narbo Martius  - today's Narbonne. This new capital was intended to divert trade from the still Greek and wealthy city of Massilia and the Rhone Valley.

In Vaison la Romaine, Roman vestiges can be seen throughout the town
Treating the Provinces as an extension of Rome, Emperor Augustus granted land in the Provinces to landless legionnaires as a reward for victories.  They could settle with their families, so securing the territory for the Empire and work the land producing food and materials for sale in Rome.  The facilities of each settlement were an important element in the stability of each community, therefore "mini Romes" were constructed in each settlement complete with theatres, baths, forums and arenas.

In Arles, the Roman Arena seats 26,000 people
Arles was the first such settlement - given to the Sixth Legion of Julius Caesar after their victory in the battle with Pompei at Marseille, quickly becoming known as "the little Rome of the Gauls".  Amongst the many Roman sites in this town, the Arena built in the 1st Century AD is probably the most notable. It seats 26,000 people who gathered to watch gladiators during Roman times, but today the amphitheatre, which is 150 yards long and about the width of a football field is used mainly for "les Courses Camarguaises" - Bullfights Provencal style, where the bull does not get hurt.  Not so well preserved are the remains of the Theatre Antique which once was a very grand structure for up to 7,000 theater goers. Now reduced to a few rows of seats and the orchestra pit, it can be seen, and still serves as one of the venues for the annual Arles Music and Drama Festival.

A beautifully preserved monument in the town of Orange - an Arc de Triomphe recognizes bravery during the Gallic wars.
The Second Legion were the recipients of the town of Orange for their heroic service during the Gallic wars.  This town, which now carries the name of the royal family of the Netherlands, is home  to two magnificently preserved Roman structures.  In the middle of town is  the Theatre Antique built just before the birth of Jesus Christ and is still in use today for the summer Cheorogies, where up to 7,000 spectators can be accommodated at any performance.  Notable aspects of this theatre are its incredible acoustics and an enormous screen wall, which serves as a backdrop for performances.  On the outskirts of the town, is an Arc de Triomphe - a monument to the Roman victories in the Gallic wars. Originally built on the Via Agrippa, today it is the majestic centerpiece of a very large roundabout.

In Nimes, the Maison Carree is a Roman Temple which was the inspiration for Thomas Jefferson when planning the State Capital building in Richmond, Victoria
Nimes, or Nemausus as it was known in Roman times, was bequeathed to the Legions which fought and defeated Antony and Cleopatra at Actium. Very quickly,  it began a transformation into a Roman town.  Within the impressive city walls built to enclose nearly a square mile in area was an amphitheatre, a forum with temples and a watchtower.  The best known of the Roman structures still standing in Nimes is the Maison Caree a Roman temple which served as the inspiration for Thomas Jefferson in planning the State Capital building in Richmond, Virginia. Today, it is a museum which is open daily to the public. The Arena, or Arenes, was modeled on the Colosseum in Rome and can seat up to 21,000 people.  It is considered the best preserved Roman amphitheatre in the world, but it is still home to Provencal bullfights or tennis matches in the summer.

The Pont du Gard
As the settlements in the south developed into a bustling towns with many prosperous residents, the need for a safe and steady supply of water began to grow.  This resulted in one of the most impressive feats of engineering and construction of Roman times. The Pont du Gard, is a majestic three tiered structure that was built to traverse the Gardon River at a fifteen storey height. Construction of this structure was started in 50 BC and was completed in less than 5 years.  It is built completely of hand cut stone blocks that took hundreds of men to hoist into position.  It stands today as the second tallest Roman structure in the world and has withstood many, many floods that have washed away much newer bridges.  The bridge and visitors center are open to the public daily.  The bridge is quite often the backdrop for concerts and fireworks displays.

Glanum - near St. Remy de Provence
Just outside St. Remy de Provence, lie the ruins of the old city of Glanum, which contains among other vestiges, a forum and thermal baths. Opposite Glanum are the ruins of  a mausoleum, and an Arc de Triomphe, which were constructed in approximately 30 AD.

The Old Roman Bridge at Vaison la Romaine over the Ouveze River
Vaison la Romaine - the nearest large town to Sablet, was a very prosperous Roman center.  Prior to its very gradual Roman conversion, it was the capital of a Celtic tribe - the Voconti.   The Gallo-Roman city developed around the villas already built along the Ouveze River.  The gradual Romanization of the town is credited for its success and stability. Vaison la Romaine became one of the richest cities in Gallia Narbonensis with numerous geometric mosaic pavements and a small theatre that has been refurbished and is open to the public. Roman vestiges can be seen throughout the town and the Visitor's Center provides information on locating the various monuments.

At Vaison la Romaine, Roman Vestiges show the pattern of the streets and the layout of the old Roman town
During the second half of the 5th Century, the area went through a period of instability following invasions by the Germanic tribes - the Visigoths in  the year 480, followed by the Ostrogoths, then the Burgundians and finally the Franks in the 6th Century.  These invasions coupled with the waning of the Roman Empire and the power it exercised it the region saw the end of the Roman Era in Provence.  The fact that so many structures and monuments have survived to this day, is a testament to the to quality of the workmanship of the times and the wealth and prosperity brought about during Roman times.