Our Vacation Rental Homes in Sablet, Provence

Sablet Village, Vaucluse, Provence, France
Maison des Pelerins and La Baume des Pelerins, or "les Pelerins" as we affectionately refer to our dream come true, of owning our own homes in Provence, are located in the heart of the Vaucluse. We thoroughly enjoy hearing from our guests to "les Pelerins" that they feel they are spending time in their own home in Provence. To be a part of village life, Sablet is the perfect place. "Les Pelerins" dates back to the time when the Popes administered the Catholic Church from Avignon, with a Papal Vice-Legat having a residence right here in Sablet. Our neighbor's home was the Vice-Legat's residence. Ours was one of the buildings that housed visitors and pilgrims and was connected to it, as we can see from the internal portals, and the front door of Maison des Pelerins. Hence the name - Pelerins is French for pilgrims. I hope this Blog will help you get to know Provence and live your Provencal Dream.
Showing posts with label Orange. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Orange. Show all posts

Saturday, June 23, 2012

The Knights Templar in Provence


One of the ironies surrounding the story of the Knights Templar – the Warrior Monks as they came to be known, is that they were formed  in  Jerusalem around the year 1118 as the "Order of the Poor Knights of the Temple of Solomon", to maintain the security of the newly established Kingdom of Jerusalem, and protect pilgrims visiting the Holy Land at the end of the First Crusade of 1096.  However,  it is speculated that their end which was first initiated in the year 1307 and completed by 1312, was brought about by the fact that they had amassed extreme wealth and influence. They were brought down in a rather spectacular fashion by King Philip IV (Philip the Fair of France - who was heavily indebted to the Knights Templar), and Pope Clement V who had established the Popes in Avignon in the year 1309.

Jacques de Molay, the last leader of the Knights Templar - from a 19th Century color lithograph by Chevauchet 
The disbanding of this Order began on Friday 13th of October 1307, when Philip ordered all of the Templars in France to be  arrested and imprisoned for “Satanism and other unnatural acts and practices.”  Many were found guilty after torture-encouraged confessions and others for refusing to confess.  In March 1314, Jacques de Molay, the leader of the Knights Templar,  who had spent the previous several years in prison for being a relapsed heretic was burned at the stake on the Ile-des-Javiaux in the River Seine.

Two Templars burned at the stake, from a French 15th century manuscript 
During the nearly two hundred years that the Knights Templars operated between Western Europe and Palestine, the “Templars” as their official title was abbreviated to, not only set up secure routes for pilgrims traveling from Europe to the Holy Land, but also established the first “Banking System”. 

12th century stone marking Hugo de Bolboton founder of the Templars of Richeranches in 1136 - in the Church at Richeranches
When men joined the Order, they took an oath of poverty and donated all their wealth and lands to the Knights Templar,  and in 1127 when they received their first large donation of land, it began a flood of many such donations  and special privileges granted to the Order by various Monarchs and Popes.   This together with the spoils of battles, lead to the amassing of a true fortune, and a great deal of power, having received an edict from the Pope which gave them authority to operate across the borders of many countries,  but made them answerable only to Pope himself.

This placque at the Commanderie in Richeranches tells of the Arrest and trial of the leaders of the Templars
The Order was the first bankers who set up the basis of the system that is still in use today.  Their banking activities included, loans to Monarchs of both England and France to finance the Crusades, transporting money and valuables between Palestine and Europe, lending money to pilgrims traveling to the Holy Land and setting up a system whereby a landowner leaving to travel to the Crusades or on a Pilgrimage, could deposit their assets with the Knights Templar in their home country, and travel with a form of a Letter of Credit, which enabled them to make withdrawals from their account at other locations.  

Courtyard of the Commanderie des Templiers - Richeranches
The Knights Templar set up an extensive network of Commanderies from Europe to  Palestine. These Commanderies were support bases for the Knights and Pilgrims whilst on their journey. They also served as training centers for young knights in training and retirement centers for older knights.  The support systems included not only the knights who were the heavy cavalry, but assistants to these knights, known as sergeants who were equipped as light cavalry and drawn from a lower social class than the knights.  There were farmers who worked the land  for the production of food, and other agricultural products such as corn, wool, oil and cattle that were used locally as well as to supply the Holy Land  – they cared for and administered the properties.  The spiritual life of the Order was seen to by the Chaplains of the Commanderie, who were all ordained priests.

Templar Artifacts at the Office de Tourisme in Richeranches, housed in the old Commanderie
Provence has a number of towns that were home to Commanderies of the Knights Templar.  Close to Sablet and our vacation rental homes there is a particularly good example of such a main Commanderie in the town of Richeranches.  Here, the Commanderie was erected on land donated by Hugo de Bolboton, a local land owner who was committed to the cause of the crusades.   The fortified structure followed a common square courtyard layout with a Chapel and  a refectory at opposite ends of the structure.  Although many of the original buildings of this Commanderie have been destroyed or incorporated into other  structures of the village, the Refectory building, the Dining and Meeting Halls of the original Commanderie is still intact and perhaps one of the best preserved in Europe.  The Commanderie in Richeranches became an important center for horse breeding.  The constant need for horses during this time of warfare required a steady supply of sturdy animals and Richeranches horses became known as the best breed to carry the burden and heavy armor of the knights during battle. 

The Templar Cross on the roundabout leading to Richeranches, reminds visitors of the Village's history as a commanderie
The Commanderie at Richeranches carried a high designation on the same level as those of Aix-en-Provence and Arles, and therefore had subsidiary Commanderies in Orange, Roaix, Villedieu and Montélimar, with other support centers for the Templars in Cairanne and Vacqueyras.

Cave Cooperative at Richeranches - known as the Caveau des Templiers
Despite the uncertainty associated with this group of Warrior-Monks, certain aspects of their legacy appear to be remarkable.  Their temporal contribution to the safe transit of the pilgrims was direct and real, but their ongoing contribution to the modern facility of international banking may be their real legacy. 

Since the official disbanding of the Knights Templar, many myths have persisted including stories of - treasure found at the Temple Mount in Jerusalem and hidden by the Templars;  the Knights possession of the Holy Grail and the Ark of the Covenant;  Recent authors in books of historical fiction have linked them to them to the Rosicrucians, the Priory of Sion, the Rex Deus, the Cathars, the Hermetics, the Gnostics, the Essenes, and, ultimately, lost relics or teachings of Jesus such as the Shroud of Turin or a "Judas Testament." Interest in some of these claims has been sparked by The Da Vinci Code by  Dan Brown.

Friday, May 11, 2012

Solving The Mysteries Of The Terroir...

... That is exactly what fellow Sabletain and "Terroirist" Olivier Hickman does.  

This way ...

Read carefully .... because Olivier has spent many years making himself familiar with the terrain, learning the patterns of work, analyzing the components of each fermenting vat, and critically evaluating the results of many, many ..... acres of vineyards … and Wine Harvests!

Olivier guides a tasting at Domaine la Fourmone

Although not all wine experts agree about the exact definition of the somewhat mysterious concept of the  "Terroir," it is of supreme importance in the French wine  industry, (and is becoming increasingly important in many other wine growing areas). The basic element of the concept: a belief that the land on which the grapes are grown, imparts a unique quality which is specific to that particular area - be it a region, a vineyard or even a specific area within the same vineyard.  It also includes the micro-climate and the surrounding vegetation and airborne natural yeasts.   Coupled with the Appellation Controlee system, there's a lot to learn about.

Sablet is surrounded by vineyards
The Vendange in the vineyards around Gigondas - thanks to Dave Condeff for the picture

Olivier points out that, “The winemaker is king in the New World wine industry (Australia, Americas, etc). Styles of New World wines are driven, predominantly by wine making skills in the cellar.
In France, the emphasis is to “grow” a wine where the wine style is a product of the growers’ unique terroir and their grape-cultivation skills. The winemaker behaves more like a midwife: they are not the mother of the wine, there merely bring forth what was born in the vineyard.”


Out in the vineyards, a group of guests experiences the terroir

From enthusiastic amateur to the connoisseur, well versed in Southern Cote du Rhone wines, Olivier - the Proprietor of Wine Uncovered in Sablet, offers  customized wine tours.  His aim is to help his tour guests come away, having enjoyed the tour, and learned in as much depth as they would like to, of all that goes into the making of these fine wines, and the "Appellation Controlee" system. "Enjoyable, stress-free and informative tours" is the motto at Wine Uncovered. 


Olivier's tours visit selected Wineries.  Guests can choose between a half day tour of two wineries, a three quarter day tour of three wineries or a whole day covering four wineries, touring the cellars and taking outings into the vineyards, with a discussion of the philosophy of those wineries, the growing areas and methods, the types of grapes and their wine making techniques. Tastings are guided by your host and allow the opportunity to ask lots of questions and gain a much broader understanding of one of France's most versatile wine regions


Olivier, a graduate of Cambridge University, began his career as a Financial Controller.  After this  he opened a Wine Importing business in London, and then he began wine making in the Languedoc.  He and his wife and two children moved to Sablet in 2005, and began Wine Uncovered Tours, which has received many wonderful reviews and will soon be featured on the PBS Series "The Winemakers". Having grown up visiting his French grandmother in nearby Orange, he naturally felt quite at home amongst the vineyards of the southern Cote du Rhone.


If a Provencal vacation in your future and you would like to know more about the tours that solve the mysteries of the terroir, you can check out all the details at:  www.wine-uncovered.com  

Maybe we'll see you there!

Saturday, March 10, 2012

Supermarket Shopping in Provence (and France)

We hear much about the Markets of Provence and the small specialty stores that sell the very best of produce, cheese, charcuterie and so on. 

These shops are all around you and they are very much a part of the French life. For instance, it's not uncommon to hear our friends talk about making a special trip to Vaison-la-Romaine, to see Josiane Deal at Lou Canestou for their cheese course at a special dinner - and Lou Canestou is an extremely good choice as they have excellent cheese!

But .... many of our guests vacationing in Provence at Maison des Pelerins and la Baume des Pelerins, have to balance food shopping and cooking the perfect Provencal Dinner, with getting out and about to visit all the sites and scenery that they have come to see, maybe with their young children, and don't have the time to devote to finding and visiting the specialty stores. In Sablet we are very fortunate to have a wonderful little Mini Market, but not all villages have that luxury.

Intermarche Supermarket on the Route de Nyons - Vaison la Romaine

To everyone who falls into this category - I have good news for you!  Provence has excellent Supermarkets!  The quality is excellent - the stores are generally very large and well laid out, carrying a very wide range of foods and other household items. 

Carrefour Market - Orange - just off Exit 22 from the A7 AuroRoute
The larger Supermarket chains are: Intermarche, Carrefour, LeClerc, SuperU and Auchan (this is a humungous store that carries everything from groceries to automotive supplies, clothing, household items and appliances). I'm sure I have missed some, but you will commonly see these stores.  

Super U Supermarket in Vaison la Romaine - Avenue des Choralies  84110 Vaison-la-Romaine
If you are planning a "self-catering" vacation at a rental home in Provence or anywhere in France, it's very easy to find a Supermarket near your destination to stock up on supplies, without having to hurriedly brush up on your French for fear of starving!
The entry to Auchan Market ("Hypermarche") near Avignon (Centre Commercial - le Pontet).. now this is a Supermarket!
It is easy to recognize the layout of most Supermarkets in Provence since they follow a pattern that will be similar to the US, the UK, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and many other countries.  


Do you think there's an adequate choice of cheeses?   ..... browse at your leisure ... and then pick your fromage


There are sections for fruit and vegetables, deli items, fresh meats and poultry, bakery, dairy etc., In Provence (and throughout France) there are however a few practical differences that it will help to know about before you get there.

Let's take it from the beginning ..... 

1.  Grocery Bags (Sacs) ....

Isn't this what a Provencal shopping bag should look like?
 ....  Always take your own bags - Supermarkets in Provence will charge you per bag if you do not have any, and do not want to carry your items out to the car loose in your cart (Chariot).  

2.  Grocery Carts (Chariots) ....

Carts are stored at various points around the parking lot, where they can be picked up and dropped off easily

.... Most Supermarkets make their carts available outside the store - some have carts stored in various parts of the parking lot as well as by the doors.

3.    Keep a 1 Euro Coin handy!  ......


Slide a 1Euro coin into the slot - it releases the lock on the cart .. and you are free to walk around the store!
.... In order to get a cart, you will have to slide a one euro piece into the mechanism that keeps it locked in place to all the other carts.  

When you have unpacked your cart at the end of your shopping trip, simply take the cart back and slide the catch back in and your Euro will pop back out.  
                                                 Don't forget it!

4.  Once in the store, when purchasing fruit and vegetables - place them in your plastic bag, seal the bag and weigh them on the nearest electronic scale. 
Produce must be bagged, weighed and priced prior to checkout. (Picture from Americans in France website)
You will see pictures of all the fruit and vegetables available, right on the scales.  Find your choice and press the appropriate button.  An adhesive price tag will be printed out and ejected from the scales.  Be sure to stick the tag on the plastic bag of produce. If you miss this step, the checker will send you back to do it! (Yes.... it was embarrassing!) 

5.  Checking Out ...
When you get to the checkout, as usual, you will have to unload your cart, but you will also have to do your own bagging. There will be no one bagging, and the checker does not bag your purchases - here is where you need the bags you brought.

Just one more hint:  If you are renting a vacation home, I strongly recommend going to your destination and unloading your luggage, before going to the supermarket (perhaps after a cup of coffee or even a glass of wine).  That way, you will not be leaving your luggage in an unattended car whilst shopping, AND you will have an opportunity to do a quick stock take on items that may already be provided with your rental as this varies. 

I hope you won't have to put the top down on your car to fit all your purchases in!


Happy Shopping and Bon Courage!   


Practical Items:

Large supermarkets close to Sablet are: Intermarche on the Route de Nyons in Vaison la Romaine, Super U on the Avenue des Choralies, Vaison-la-Romaine and Carrefour in South Orange right off Autoroute 22 from the A7.

Most large supermarkets are open from 8am to 7.30pm continuously 
(no closure for lunch).

Here are a few words that may be helpful when you are shopping:

la banque                         - bank
le boucherie                     - butchers
la boulangerie                  - bakers
le bureau de tabac            - cigarettes, also sells stamps,
                                           sometimes newspapers and often is part
                                           of the local bar
le bureau de poste           - post office
le centre commercial       - shopping centre
la charcuterie                  - traditionally the pork butcher, but is more
                                          like a delicatessen, selling
                                          cold meats, quiche, salads, pates                                      
le coiffeur / la coiffeuse   - hairdressers
l’épicerie                          - grocery store
le marché                          - market
la patisserie                       - cakes/pastries (also sold at the bakers)
la pharmacie                      - drug store - chemist
la presse                             - newspapers/magazines
le supermarché                   - supermarket
le chariot                            - cart - trolley
les bonbons                         - candy - sweets
le beurre                             - butter
le fromage                          - cheese
du lait                                 - milk
le sucre                               - sugar
un Å“uf                                 - egg
le pain                                  - bread
le poulet                               - chicken                           
le poulet fermier                  - free range chicken
la viande                               - meat
une tranche                           - a slice
le vin                                     - wine
le café                                   - coffee
le thé                                     - tea
jus d’orange                          - orange juice
jus de pomme                        - apple juice
les allumettes                         - matches
un sac                                    - bag
un timbre                               - a stamp
entrée                                    - entrance
sortie                                     - exit
sortie de secours                    - emergency exit
tirez                                       - pull (on shop doors)
poussez                                  - push (on shop doors)

Saturday, November 26, 2011

Christmas Markets of Provence Open this Weekend!

For many days now,  in most of the smaller & larger  towns and cities in Provence, 
log cabins have been appearing.  
Artisan sellers have moved in with everything from Regional candies and toys
to hand made quilts, sweaters, hats and santons! 
Everything Christmas is here including a great Christmas ambiance.  What fun! 
If you are travelling in the area at Christmas, with or without children  
the Christmas Markets of Provence are a must. 



 Christmas Markets of Provence - Avignon - Let's go Shopping!

The towns are decorated with lots of lights, signs wishing, "Joyeuse Fetes" and "Joyeux Noel"  (happy Christmas and happy holidays).
The markets will be open every day and late into the evening, until January 2nd 2011.

Children’s events and activities, concerts, processions, street performers, warm mulled wine, hot apple cider, hot chocolate, warm roasted chestnuts and spice bread -
all treats that make Christmas shopping  relaxing, fun and a lot less stressful.



 

Avignon Hotel de Ville - City
Hall - dressed up in its Christmas finest




 Christmas Markets of Provence - Avignon
- Street Performers add to the festive ambiance





 
Christmas Markets of Provence - Avignon - Carousel in the Place de l'Horloge
Only thirty minutes drive from Sablet, Avignon’s Christmas Market is one of my favorites – held on the beautiful Place de l’Horloge in front of the stately City Hall which is dressed up for the occasion in its Christmas finest.  You can take a leisurely stroll through the fifty something stalls, stop and talk to Père Noel (Santa), ride the magnificent Carousel and enjoy the ambience whilst purchasing goodies for your Christmas feast or souvenirs to bring home.





Christmas Markets of Provence - Avignon - baked goods and candies




Christmas Markets of Provence - Avignon - Artisnal Cheeses






Christmas Markets of Provence - Avignon - Pain d'Epices (Spice Cake)

  You will treated to all kinds for food choices – regional products,  home made jams, jellies and preserves, an unbelievable variety of artisanal cheeses, baked goodies – especially the incredible Pain d’Epices (Spice  Cake), handmade chocolates, several varieties of nougat, preserved meats and saucisson (salami) of all shapes and sizes. 
As you enter the market, the smell of the warm roasted chestnuts can't be missed
 -  and is the favorite “walking around “ food,
although........  all food stall holders are very ready to let you sample
and they love to hear your opinion!




Avignon Christmas Market - Roasted Chestnuts - the aroma draws you to this stand

A number of Santonniers display their figurines (Santons),  which make up the Provencal Christmas Créche.  At Avignon Christmas Market you can stroll down the “Chemin des Crèches” (Nativity Road).  This is a very pleasant and pretty walk through the lighted Nativity
 displays composed of a variety of styles of Santons.




Avignon Christmas Market - Displays of Santons




Avignon Christmas Market - Santonnier





Avignon Christmas Market - "Chemin des Creches "



The Nativity ("Creche"), is an important decortion in Provence, as according to legend, Jesus was born in Provence and each Creche represents the particular village at the time of his birth.  In addition to the usual figurines you would see in a Nativity, Provencal Santonniers carve additional figures of characters you would normally see in the village - the baker, the butcher the grocer, the wood cutter and many others.





Avignon Christmas Market - Pere Noel (Santa)  in his workshop


 Aix-en-Provence Christmas Market

 In Aix-en-Provence the elegant Cours Mirabeau is lined on both sides with log cabin market stalls. The spectacular display of Christmas lights on this beautiful boulevard adds to the festive atmosphere as shopping continues well into the evening

Orange Christmas Market



In Orange  .... the Christmas Market features items made by local Artisans



If you've been just wishing to escape the frenzy of Christmas at the Mall
- the Christmas Markets of Provence provide the best antidote.

See you by the Hot Chestnuts stand!